
Class F ^7 

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Copyright N° 



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"CmCJiGO TO THE sea:' 



Eia^ STEl Fi K 



EXCURSIONIST 



A COMPLETE GUIDE 



♦^PrinEipaHEaslErn^SumniEr^HEsnrls^^ 



INCLUDING 



afpd ^aguenay Sliv0t^, JWanftcaf and Qiicl>co, 
fftc JY'civ ^ntjfand Sea ^cacflc^, etc., 



HDIAZ" AND IffHEN TD ENJDY THEM. 



y.M ' 



By William C. Gage, 



Al'THOR OF "THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA," "HAND-BOOK OF TH.V»'rt," " TtR A^tltB R-F,|0 
OF THE GREAT NORTHWEST," "GOOD BEHAVIOR AT HOME VXD AKKiJAl'," Ell. 



Battle Creek, Mich 
REVIEW & HERALD STEAM PRINTING 
New York: Union News Company 

1883. 





CO PYRIGHTED 

X 8 8 3, 

BY \VM. C. GAGE. 




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->N03FEg^II^lf^0DaCT0RY.^ 



I.— EASTWARD HO! 




HILE it is true that tlie great 
tide of travel, like tlie " star of 
empii'e," is ever westward, and 
the ii'on-bound highways lead- 
ing toward the setting sun are 
the channels through which this 
current surges with ever-increas- 
ing volume, yet like those of the 
ocean, this tide has its ebb as 
well as flow. The business re- 
lations which exist between the 
East and the West render nec- 
" essary a constant intercommuni- 

cation, which of itself is suflicient to account for much of the returning 
travel. In addition to this, the social relations also exert their influ- 
ence. The man who " went West " to make his fortune desires to 
revisit the home of his youth on the Eastern hillside. Perhaps his 
children, who have grown up on the prairies, wish to see the hills and 
valleys so often described by their parents, and contrast the almost 
boundless expanses of the " great West " with the rugged moimtain 
scenery and the rocky farms, where unceasing toil, coupled, perhaps, 
with honest povei'ty, laid the foundation for sterling integrity, which 
the ease and freedom of Western life have not served to obliterate. 

The attractions of the natural scenery of the East are of themselves 
sufficient to call to them annually thousands of tourists, who, independ- 
ently of the causes already mentioned, occupy their " summer vaca- 
tions" with an Eastern tour simply for the enjoyment of the attractions 
presented in the way of pleasant routes of travel, and the scenery to 
be enjoyed on the way or at the objective point of the journey. 

With a view of meeting the wants of this great and constantly 
increasing class of exciirsionists, this work has been written. It is 
designed to point out the most desirable roiites between Chicago and 
the Eastern seaboard, and to serve as a book of ready reference by the 



b INTRODUCTORY. 

way. The lines of travel chosen are such as will give the tourist the 
most favorable opportunities for visiting the celebrated summer resorts 
en 7'oitte, and secure the advantages of palace coaches, dining cars, 
quick transit, and siire connections, — considei'ations which combine to 
make a journey enjoyable, and by means of which a trip becomes a 
luxury as a means as well as an end. 

The descriptions are made simple and practical, and with no efibrt 
to impart a roseate hue to the scenes described, but with a view to aid 
the tourist in "seeing with his own eyes" the beauties of landscape or 
other scenery from the most favorable points of observation, and dis- 
cover for himself the things too often seen only through the medium 
of the guide book. 

II.— SUMMER TRAVEL. 

The benefits arising from a summer jaunt, with its release from the 
cares of business, are of inestimable value. "Work and worry" are 
killing hundreds who might be saved to long life and happiness could 
they but bi-eak away from their toil for a trip to the mountains or sea- 
side, or some other place where business could for the time be forgotten. 
Though the respte be only a brief one, a break in the monotony of a 
busy life will sometimes relieve the tension which if too long continued 
snaps asunder the strings which need relaxation to preserve their 
strength. 

The man who esteems his life work too important to admit of va- 
cations sometimes learns, when too late for remedy, that unremitting 
application to his task has totally disqualified him for its continuance, 
and long before the period when he ought to be in his prime, he is 
compelled to relinquish to others the work he so fondly hoped to finish 
himself. A little relaxation now and then might have saved him from 
a collapse, but "he could n't afibrd the time." 

Happily for the American business world, the infection of "summer 
travel" grows more and more contagious as its benefits become better 
understood. Year by year the tide increases in volume, and the facil- 
ities of travel are multiplied to meet the demand. If these jmges 
shall serve to assist the tourist in the choice of his route, or, the choice 
being made, in rendering his journey moi*e enjoyable, their purpose 
will be fully met. 




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THE STARTING POINT. 

HICAGO, the gi-eat metropolis of tlie Northwest, with its 
multitude of railroad lines, and its enormous commercial 
interests, is most naturally the point of departure for 
east-bound touiists. Travelers from localities west of 
Chicago will desire to tarry in the city for a brief period, 
to visit its water-works, the grand exposition building, and 
and the variety of other objects of interest which render 
the place attractive to strangers. In carrying out this 
purpose, they will lind the hotel accommodations of the 
city to be second to none in America. The Grand Pacific, 
Palmer, Clifton, Briggs, Sherman, Merchants, and a host 
of others of good repute, invite the tourist to share their 
hospitalities, with the assurance of regal fcxi-e and sumptuous 
accommodations. For full information in regard to Chicago 
hotels and their terms, the reader is referred to the Daily 
National Hotel Reporter, which gives reliable and complete advices on 
this subject. 

The limits of this work forbid even a mention of the many objects 
of interest to be seen in Chicago ; and having to do with the city only 
as the starting point for our tourist, we next settle the question as to 
tlie route by which our Eastern journey is to be performed. Keeping 
in view the important points of speed, safety and comfort, together 
with the attractiveness of the scenery en route, we tind the claims of 

THE MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD 

To be of a character to meet all the requirements of the most exacting 
traveler. It has long been known as the Niagara Falls Route, and 
its recent acquirement of the Canada Southern Railway, making now 
a continuous line from Chicago to the very verge of the famous cata- 
ract, more fully than ever entitles it to that appellation. Its through 
sleeping-car connections, its siiperior equipment, its famous dining-cars, 
together with the attractive country which it traverses, and the many 
interesting points reached by it, all combine to decide the question of 
superiority, and influence the tourist in his choice of routes. 



8 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

The traveler ariiving in Chicago by other roads, and not desiring 
to tarry in the city, can be immediately transferred by Parmelee's 
omnibus line to the depot of the Michigan Central, at the foot of Lake 
street, and taking his seat in a Wagner drawing-room car, commence 
his journey with baggage checked through to destination, and with 
the assurance that his comfort will be carefully considered on the 
part of the train employes from the beginning of his trip to tlie end of 
the road. 

THE CELEBRATED FAST EXPRESS 

Of this road leaves Chicago in the afternoon, and as all first-class 
tickets are accepted on this train without extra chai'ge, it is a favorite 
with the traveling public. In the season of summer travel, it is a 
popular tourists' train, on account of its timely arrival at Niagara, 
allowing the excursionist to spend the entire day at the Falls, and take 
the evening train for the Bt. Lawrence Kiver, which is reached at 
Clayton the next morning. From this point, the elegant day boats of 
the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company make the trip down the river 
to Montreal, via Round Island Park, the celebrated Thous:ind Islands, 
the famous Rapids, and past the most lovely scenery of this beautiful 
river, which stoutly contests with the Hudson the claim to the title of 
the " Rhine of America." Tiie entire journey is by daylight, the 
boats reaching Montreal at 6 p. m. This trip, which will be more fully 
described in its proper place, constitutes one of the delightful features 
of the excursion "to the sea," and has been immensely popiilarized by 
the efforts of the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company, which is the 
only line down the St. Lawrence running boats exclusively for passen- 
ger service. It has won its way to the favor of the traveling public in 
the two past years of successful operation, being popularly known as 
the New American Line. 

But to return to the point of digression. Leaving Chicago by any 
of the express trains of the Michigan Central, the tourist has at his 
service all the facilities which make pleasant a journey by rail. The 
celebrated Wagner drawing-room and sleeping cars are run through to 
New York and Boston without change, dining cars are attached to the 
trains at convenient hours for meals, and courteous and attentive con- 
ductors, train men, porters, etc., contribute to the comfort and pleasure 
of the traveler as occa.sion presents for their services. 

The ride out of the city and through the suburbs for a considerable 
distance is along the shores of Lake Michigan, presenting views of the 
lake craft, with their white sails, or clouds of smoke and vapor from 
their stacks, as far as the eye can reach. The government pier, with 
its protecting wall, stretches along the shore, and in the distance may 
be seen the "crib" of the water- works. 

On the other hand, the Douglas monument and park present them- 
selves to view, together with numerous interesting objects peculiar to 
the suburbs of a great city, until, increasing its speed, the train passes 



THE DINING-CAR SYSTEM. 



9 



fairly into the open countiy, whicli is here and tliere dotted witli a 
siibiirban residence, or the buiklings of some thrifty farmer, or per- 
chance a pretty viUage, whose inhabitants have their business interests 
in Chicago, but their homes in the quiet suburbs of the bustling city. 

Fifteen miles out, we pass the charming town of Pullman, a model 
settlement, sometimes called the "magic city," with its elegant build- 
ings, all of brick, in the most ajaproved styles of architecture. Its 
important industrial enterprises are largely connected with the interests 
of travel, comprising the Allen paper car- wheel shops, the Pullman car 
manufactory, and various other establishments which contribute to the 
pi'osperity of this flourishing town. 

At about this stage of the jonrney, if on board the Fast Express, 
or the later train known as the Atlantic, the tourist is greeted with 
the welcome announcement, from a man in white cajj and apron, look- 
ing as though he had just stepped in from the Palmer House cafe, 

"DINNER NOW READY IN THE DINING CAR." 



Among the modei-n comforts of railway traveling, the dining-car 
system takes a prominent plnce. The hasty scramble for refreshments 
at a wayside restaurant, with 
the constant fear of "getting 
left," and a consequent bolt- 
ing of half- masticated food, 
with dyspepsia in its train, 
now gives place to a leisurely 
eaten meal, served in elegant 
style, with all the ajtpoint- 
ments and conveniences that 
can be suggested by the most 
refined taste. The Michigan 
Central was among the first 
to ado[)t this innovation, and 
so iiopular has it become as 
an adjunct to their already 
long list of popular features, 
that they have recently con- 
structed four of these elegant 
hotels upon wheels, and placed 
them upon their line between 
Chicago and Niagara Falls. These dining cars are models of taste, 
elegance and convenience, with spacious kitchens, store rooms and 
lavatories, large plate-glass windows, folding or opera chairs, and in 
fact every convenience that taste and experience could suggest for the 
comfort of their patrons. 

A glance at the mentb, which is as complete as that of a first-class 
hotel attests the fact that the gratification of its patrons, and not profit 




10 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

to its treasiuy, is the first great aim of the company in opei-ating the 
dining-car system. Indeed, it may well be questioned how such elegant 
meals can be furnished for the sum of seventy-live cents, when a simi- 
lar repast at many a hotel in the land would cost from one to two 
dollars. Perhaps a solution of the problem may be found in the re- 
mai'k of a shrewd Yankee, who once sat opposite the writer at tal)le in 
one of these cars. He had evidently fasted for many hours jii-evious, 
as his voracious appetite clearly indicated. On rising from tlie table, 
he soliloquized thus : "Well, I guess this concern han't made much out 
o' me this time, but I shall alius come by this route hereafter." , 

The dining-car system is also in successful operation on the Canada 
division of the Michigan Central, the equipments and a|)j)ointments 
being of the same character and completeness. Indeed, so popular has 
this feature become, that several other cars are in course of construc- 
tion to extend the system in a manner to meet every demand of the 
public for accommodation in this direction. 

But while we have been thiis indulging in retlections on this sub- 
ject, the train has been speeding onward, and here we are at Michigan 
City, on the extreme southern shore of Lake Michigan, and the great 
lumber port of Northern Indiana. It is a railroad center of some im- 
jjortance, the Indianapolis, Peru k Chicago, and Louisville, New Al- 
V)any & Chicago Railroads occupying the union depot with the Mich- 
igan Central. The population is about eight thousand, and its princi- 
pal business interests are manufacturing and lumber. The view of the 
city from the car windows gives a less favorable impression of the 
place than a 'closer inspection entitles it to, the immense sand bluffs 
and unpretending buildings on the lake shore being the most conspic- 
uous objects near the track. The city proper is quite an attractive and 
pleasant locality. Its chief hotels are the 8t. Nicholas, Union and 
Jewell. 

Ten miles further eastward, we reach New Buffalo, the southern 
terminus of the Chicago tk West Michigan Bailroad, which from this 
point skii'ts the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, forming the shore line 
to Pentwater. It is a pretty little town of about one thousand 
inhabitants. 

Passing several stations at which the express trains make no stop, 
twenty miles further on we reach Niles, a flourishing city of nearly 
five thousand inhabitants. 

The Michigan Central has a branch road i-unning from this point 
to South Bend, and it is also the western terminus of its "Air Line " 
division, the other being Jackson. Much of the freight luisiness of the 
road is done over this division, relieving the main line for the better 
accommodation of its immense passenger traffic. Mercantile and man- 
ufacturing interests occujiy the attention of the thriving people of Niles, 
a superior water power furnishing excellent facilities for ffour and paper 
mills and other enterprises, which combine to make this an important 
business center. Its leading hotels are the Bond, Pike and Farler. 



IMPURTANT TOWNS ALONO THE LINE. 11 

At Lawton, tliirty-oiie miles from Niles, connection is made vvitli 
the Paw Paw Railroad for Hartford, Lawrence and Paw Paw. The 
express trains do not stop, however, but, hurrying onward, the next 
important station is that so well known as the " Big Village." 

Kalamazoo, with a i)opulation of about twelve thousand, and no 
city charter, prides itself on being one of the largest villages in 
America. Except in its municipality, however, it is, to all intents and 
purjioses, a city, with its extensive public works, its thriving manufact- 
uring establishments, and its imjjortant railroad intei-ests. The South 
Haven division of the Michigan Central exteiids westward from here 
to the shore of Lake Michigan. Intersection is also made with the 
Orand Rapids it Indiana Raih-oad and the Kalamazoo division of the 
Lake Shore Railway. The manufacturing and mercantile interests of 
Kalamazoo are quite extensive, and it has also acquired no little celeb- 
rity as a mai-ket for su})erior agricultural products. Its leading hotels 
are the Burdick House, Kalamazoo House and American House. 

Battle Creek, twenty-three miles east of Kalamazoo, is the next 
important city on the route, and is one of the most thriving and enter- 
prising towns in the State. Many of its business interests are on an 
extensive scale, notably the manufacture of threshing machinery and 
engines, three large establishments being devoted to this industry. 
On ajtproaching the city the buildings of the Review rf' Herald Pub- 
lishing establishment ai'e among the first to attract attention, and just 
before the train comes to a. halt, it passes the shops of the Battle 
Creek Machinery Company, which are on the left of the track, 
while the factory of the Union School Furniture Company is nearly 
O])posite, on the right. The products of the forjner company are 
shipped to all parts of the world, while the "Automatic" school-seat is 
jxcciuiring a national reputation as one of the most convenient and 
unique articles of furniture ever put in use in a school-room. 

The intersection of the Michigan Central, the Chicago k. Grand 
Trunk, and the Toledo k Milwaukee Railroads, the latter just com- 
pleted, renders Battle Creek an important railroad center, and accounts 
for the rapid and prosperous growth of the city. This is also the loca- 
tion of the 

CELEBRATED MEDICAL AND SURGICAL SANITARIUM, 

Which has gained an enviable reputation as an invalid's home. Al- 
though not originally designed as a summer resort, its facilities in that 
direction have made it a favorite summer home for many who would 
liardly call themselves invalids. Here may be found a remedy for one 
great drawback to the success of summer vacations in general, which 
are often robbed of much of their sanitary benefit by poor food and in- 
attention to the laws of health. While the caisine of this establish- 
ment is of the most bounteous character, it is especially ordered with 
reference to healthfulness, and is in itself one imj^ortant element of the 
great siiccess of the institution in curing the sick. 



12 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



The facilities of the Sanitarium for the treatment of disease are the 
best known to modern medical science. In addition to baths of eveiy 
description, including Tnrkisli, Russian, vapor, electro-vapor, thermal. 




etc., the employment of massage, Swedish movements, and the various 
forms of electrical treatment, are provided for by costly appliances, 
some of which were designed expressly for this institution. When we 
add that the medical superintendent, Dr. J. H. Kellogg, is a member 
of the State Board of Health, and occupies a position of great prom- 



IMPORTANT TOWNS ALONG THE LINE. 13 

inence as a writer and lectui"er on sanitary matters, and that a staff of 
educated and intelligent gentlemen and lady physicians are constantly 
caring for patients and visitors, we have indicated some of the reasons 
for the mai'velous prosi)erit\ of the institution. Our illustration gives 
a view of the main building. A large numlier of cottages and other 
buildings make up the facilities of the SANiTAUirii for taking care of 
its guests. 

The leading hotels of Battle Creek are the Lewis House and the 
Williams House, the Sanitarium being also a favorite transient home 
Avith many travelers. 

Shortly after leaving the station at Battle Creek, the train comes 
to a halt at the crossing of the Chicago & Grand Trunk Railway, at 
the station named Nichols, the location of the extensive works 
where are maniifactiired the celebrated Nichols, Shepard & Co.'s " Vi- 
brator " threshing machinery, engines, etc. This is one of the most 
important industries of the city, giving employment to a large number 
of skilled mechanics. Just beyond are the railroad shops of the C. & 
G. T. Company, which also furnish employment to a goodly number of 
men. 

Marshall, the next important station, is a pleasant little town, the 
county seat of Calhoun county, with some maniifacturing interests, and 
considerable wealth, being the center of a large and prosperous agricul- 
tural district. It is widely known among travelers as the dining station 
of the Michigan Central Railroad. The day trains still make their 
stops here for dinner, and the hours of midday are among the liveliest 
the people of this quiet place witness. It is the boast of the managei's 
of the dining-i'ooms that a faihire to provide chicken pie foi- their 
guests has- occurred but once in seventeen years, although fabulous 
prices often have to be paid for the feathered bipeds to perpetuate the 
time-honored custom. 

The Tontine, Forbes and Ti'emont Houses are the principal hotels. 

Albion is the next town of much imjjortance in our journey, and is 
really a thriving place, some of its manufactures being widely known. 
It is also the seat of Albion College, a flourishing denominational school, 
imder the management of the Methodists. Our road here intersects the 
Lansing division of the Lake Shore Railway. The princi])al hotels of 
Albion are the Commercial and the Albion House. 

Our fiext important station is Jackson, the largest city in the inte- 
rior of the State. As the central point of heavy railroad interests, 
important manufactures, and extensive coramei-cial enterprises, the city 
is well known. The State ]irison is located liere. and is of itself a 
manufacturing establishment of no little importance. The railroad 
shops of the Michigan Central give employment to nearly a thousand 
men, and thus contribute largely to the city's jHOsperity. The mineral 
resources of the vicinity are of no small magnitude, comprising coal, 
salt, tire clay, etc. 

It is the terininus of the Grand River Yallev, Air Line, and Sagi- 



14 



CHICAUU TO THE SEA. 



naw divisions of the Michigan Central Raih'oad and the Fort Wayne 
and Jackson branches of the Lake Shoie and Michigan Southern Rail- 
way. Passengers cliange here for the ])leasure resorts of northern 
Michigan, via the Mackinaw Division of the Central, with which con- 
nection is maile at Bay City. 

The Hibbard House, the Hnrd Honse, the Commercial, and several 
smaller hotels, take good care of travelers who have occasion to tarry 
in Jackson. 

Thirty-eight miles west of Detroit, the train halts at Ann Arbor, 
the county seat of Washtenaw county, which has a resident population 
of about ten thousand, not including the stndents ol" the State Univer- 
sity, which number nearly hfteen hundi-ed. The city is pleasantly sit- 
iiated on both sides of the Huron River, its streets being wide, finely- 
laid out, and adorned with shade trees. The Toledo, Ann Arbor k, 




UNIVEHSITV OF MICHIGAN. 



Gi-and Ti-unk Railway gives the place a north and south bxisiness out- 
let, while the Central takes care of the east and west business. The 
Huron River furnishes excellent water power, and the flourishing in- 
dustries of the city show how well it is improved. 

In addition to all these, its reputation as an educational center 
places it among the most important of Michigan citi-s. Its local ])ub- 
lic schools are of a high order of excellence, especially its High School, 
which occupies an elegant building costing !:?o(»,()0i). But its chief 
importance in this respect is from the fact of its being the seat of the 
University of Michigan, with its depai'tments of litei'ature, science and 
arts, law, medicine, pharmacy, dental sxn-gery, and engineering. This- 
institution has almost a world-wide reputation as one of the foremost 



IMPORTANT TOWNS ALONO THE LINE. 



15 



schools in the land, and indeed many of its students ax-e from aliroad, 
attracted by its fame, and the excellent facilities at their command. 

The St. James, Cook, and Leonard Houses, are the principal hotels. 

Ypsilanti, eight miles distant from Ann Arbor, is the next stop- 
ping place, and is a pleasant town of some live thousand inhabitaiits. 
The line water power of Hnron River is here utilized by several manu- 
factoi'ies, among which that of paper-making is brought to a high state 
of excellence. In addition to the railroad facilities aftbrded by the 
Michigan Central, it has southerly communication by means of a 
branch of the Lake Shore & Michiiran Southern Railwav. It is the 




STATE NORMAL SCHOOL. 



seat of the State Normal School, which occupies an elegant building, 
and beautiful groimds, the latter donated to the State for the purpose. 
There are many line residences here, some of them the homes of busi- 
ness men of Detroit. 

The Roberts, Lewis, and Hawkins Houses, the European, and sev- 
eral others, furnish adequate hotel accommodations. 

From Ypsilanti, the train speeds swiftly over the smoothest of 
tracks, past pleasant villages, through verdant fields, and in view of 
snug farm-houses, the next important stopping places being Wayne 
Junction, where connection is made with the Flint &. Pere Marquette 
Railroad, and Springwells, formerly Grand Trunk Junction, three 
miles beyond which is 

DETROIT, THE CITY OF THE STRAIT. 

The largest city in Michigan, and its commercial metropolis, it is 
beautifully situated on the Detroit River, 18 miles from Lake Erie, 
and 7 from Lake St. Clair. It is one of the prettiest, pleasantest cities 
in all the West, and the oldest, as well. Its rapid gi'owth during the 
past twenty years is a marked feature in connection with its history. 
The many lines of railroad centering here, and its extensive commercial 
interests, togethei' with the rich agricultural region which here finds an 
outlet for its products, all contribute to the prosperity of the city. 



16 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

The exci^rsionist will fin'd mucli to interest in a visit to Detroit. 
Its location upon tlie river, which is here about half a mile wide, sug- 
gests excursions by w^ater, which constitute a considerable share of the 
recreation of its people, by the numerous lines of steamers which ply 
between the city and various points on the river and the lakes. The 
public parks of the city aiibrd pleasant " breathing places " for those 
■who choose to avail themselves of their advantages. In addition to 
the older resorts of this class, the city has recently pitrchased Belle 
Isle, with an area of about 800 acres, and a pai"k commission are en- 
gaged in the work of improvement, the result of which will be the pro- 
viding of a place of recreation for citizens and visitors, comparing fa- 
vorably with the parks of any of the large cities. Boats leave at 
frequent intervals for the Island, from the foot of Woodward Avenue. 

To notice the many attractions which tempt the tourist to prolong 
his stay in the beautiful City of the Strait would require too much of 
our space. We can only add that the resources of the vicinity in the 
■way of entertainment and recreation are ample, and of sufficient variety 
to render a visit to the city an occasion of much enjoyment. The hotel 
facilities are unexcelled, comprising fifty or more, including the Antis- 
del, Brunswick, Griswold, Madison, Michigan Exchange, Rice's Tem- 
perance, St. Charles, Russell, and a variety of lesser houses, at all 
prices. At those above mentioned, the terms range from f 1 to $3.50 
per day. 

CROSSING THE FERRY. 

Continuing our eastward journey from Detroit, the river is crossed 
to the Canada shore by means of the ferry, and the transhipment of 
the train is an operation of much ititerest to one who observes it for 
the first time. The mammoth transfer boat, capable of holding, in 
several sections, the long passenger train, is securely fastened to the 
dock, and the cars are run on, with theii" load of passengers and 
baggage. The powerful machinery of the boat is set in motion, and in 
a few moments the train is again made up at Windsor, on the Canada 
side, ready to proceed on its way. 

Windsor, the western terminus of the Canada division of tiie 
Michigan Central Railroad, is a floux-ishing town of about eight thou- 
sand inhal)itants directly across the river from Detroit. The town of 
Sandwich, two miles below, has some celebrity as a summer resort on 
account of its mineral springs. 

The chief interest of the American tourist iii regard to Canada, 
however, is in getting through it. While there are many things worthy 
of note in connection with the homes of our cousins over the border, 
they are best appi-eciated by a longer tarry than can be afforded by the 
excursionist who makes a flying trip between the West and the East. 
The prejudice of the native American, so frequently manifested against 
everything Canadian, is often as unfounded as it is unreasonable. To 
be sure, the difference between Canada and the States in habits and 



THE ROUTE THROUGH CANADA. 17 

customs is sometimes quite marked, but frequently not more so than 
that existing between different sections of our own country. The rail- 
road is doing much toward the annihilation of all these differences, by 
facilitating intercourse and the comingling of the peojile of all sections. 
The trip through Canada is via the Canada division, formerly the 

CANADA SOUTHERN RAILWAY, 

And is the only line through Canada under distinctiively American man- 
agement. While the Michigan division of the road conti-ibutes a lai-ge 
amount of local business, even to the express ti-ains, the less populous 
districts of Canada are sufficiently accommodated by the local trains, 
allowing the through expresses to make long and rapid runs, with few 
stops. The fast New York express, for instance, is timed to make the 
run from Windsor to St. Thomas, a distance of 111 miles, with only a 
single stop, about midway. The level country through which the 
road passes, with the long stretches of air'; line, many miles in extent, 
are conducive to smooth and i'a})id running, and in this respect amply 
compensates for any lack of beauty in the natural scenery. There are, 
however, some quite interesting sections of country on the route. 

St. Thomas, about midway of the line, is a city of some eight or 
nine thoiisand inhabitants, and of considerable importance as a railroad 
center. We here cross the Great Western division of the Grand 
Trunk, and connect with the St. Clair division of the Michigan Central, 
and the Ci'edit Valley Railway for Toronto. The leading hotels are 
the Commercial, Queens, Hutchinson, Wilcox and Lisgar. 

At Niagara Junction the train divides, and that portion having 
Buffalo for its objective 2"»oint, proceeds, by way of Fort Erie and Black 
Bock, to the Union Depot in Buffalo, while the other ])ortion goes to 
America's greatest pleasure resort via the ISiagara- Falls division of 
the road. 

Should the tourist choose to lirst visit Buflalo, he may proceed to 
the Falls by later trains, which run at frequent intervals during the 
day between the two points. 

THE CITY OF BUFFALO 

Is of interest to the excursionist as one of the most important com- 
mercial centers west of New York City, and the focus of a large num- 
ber of railroads. It has a magniticent harbor, one of the best on the 
whole chain of lakes, its water front extending about five miles, half on 
Lake Erie and half on Niagara Biver. Its grain elevators, some 
thirty in all, have a storage capacity of nearly six millions of bushels, 
and are capable of transferring a])Out half that amount every twenty- 
four hours. As the western terminus of the Erie Canal, and with its 
lake shipping and railroad facilities, it has become the largest grain 
port in America, with the single exception of New York City. 

The traveler who may wish to prolong his stay in Buffalo will find 
a multitude of hotels, of all deei'ees of excellence. 



JilBliii; jiill!lk.jiil»irj«lBk..iiilllltii!; jiillllliir. .mllllk alkjiilSiir. jOir^^iill'Ik.iiiftrjiillIlInr / 



^•^» Niagara Falls. w#- 




"W *lillF"^"!iaF"^i|ll«'^ 'I'JillF aii|j]»ir:;iij|j||ir-ji»|j[ic ■jii||j[n- •j«]|j||iit ]iii|;|Nr] 



all the pleasure- resorts on the 
American continent, probably 
none receive annually so many 
visitors as the famous cataract 
where the waters of the upper 
lakes so grandly plunge over 
the precipice on their way to 
Lake Ontario. The reasons for 
this are, doubtless, first, the 
wonderful atti-activeness of the 
Falls as an object of interest, 
;ind, secondly, their ease of ac- 
cess, and the consequent facility with which they may be visited. Sit- 
uated upon the main thoroughfare between the East and the West, 
over which such a constant tide of travel is surging throughout the 
entire year, it requires biit little sacrifice of time on the part of many 
to pay them a visit. Biit these are merely the casual \ isitors, in addi- 
tion to whom thousands annually come from all ])arts of the land, and 
from over the ocean, to gaze upon this far-famed catai-act. 

We design to give in this chapter such facts as shall serve as a 
complete guide for the tourist in visiting this resort, not only to all the 
points of interest, but such other information as shall render his visit 
enjoyable. Before entering into particiilars, we present a general de- 
scription of Niagara, in a comprehensive view, which will assist the 
reader in understanding the several detailed descriptions which follow. 
Niagara River is the outlet of Lake Erie, connecting it with On- 
tario, the lowest in the great chain of lakes, which unitedly are the 
largest inland resei'voirs in the world. The river is only '.\'S miles in 
length, and the total descent in that distance is 334 feet, Lake Ontario 
being that much lower than Erie, which is 565 feet above sea level. 
About a mile above the Falls the waters commence to descend with 
great velocity, constituting what is known as the Rapids, second in in- 
terest only to the Falls themselves, and adding to the interest of the 
latter by giving such an increased velocity to the water in its plunge 
over the precipice. The total descent in this mile is 52 feet, and the 



NIAGARA FALLS. 19 

waters come rushing and tumbling along the rocky bed of the stream, 
which is Ixere considerably narrower than its general channel above. 

Jiist above the Falls ai'e several small islands, connected by a sys- 
tem of bridges with one another and the American shore, and affording 
a matrniticent view of the Eajdds. Standins; on one of the bridges, or 
the upper shoi"e of an island, and looking up the stream, the view pre- 
sented is grand and impressive, as the resistless torrent seems ready to 
overwhelm all in its course. 

These islands, combined with a sharp cuive in the course of the 
stream, widen the channel to about 4,750 feet, one-fourth of which is 
occupied by Goat Island, the largest of the group, which here extends 
to the extreme verge of the precipice, and divides the stream and the 
Falls into two distinct parts. 

The American Fall is about 1,1()0 feet wide, and the remaimler, or 
Canada fall, aboxit double the width, although from its curved or horse- 
shoe shape the line of the brink is considerably longer than the direct 
breadth. 

Our illustration pi-esents a tine view of the American Fall from 
below, looking nortliward. The waters here make a sheer descent of 
164 feet, while the height of the Canjidian Fall is from 12 to 14 feet 
less, owing to the lengthening of the Rapids and the curve of the stream. 

The vohime of water in the Canada Fall is much greater, however, 
than that of the American, and the impetus given by the Rapids carries 
the water over the precipice with great velocity, and it foi'ms a grand 
curve in the descent, falling clear of the rocky wall into the bed of the 
river below. The lower strata of this wall being of a loose, shaly 
character, the action of the spray has hollowed it out, so that between 
the wall of rock and the descending wall of water, a, cavernous space 
exists, into which the tourist may ventiire by a rocky and somewhat 
periloiis path from the Canada side. It is needless to add that a 
water-pioof sxiit adds materially to the comfort of those who thus 
venture. Similar trips may be made under the American Fall, which 
will be duly described in detail. 

Below the Falls, on the American side, is a stairway and an in- 
clined-plane railway, leading to the water's edge, and connecting with 
a ferry which here crosses to the Canada shore by means of small 
boats, amid the spray and over the turbixlent waters, not yet at rest 
from their mighty plunge. 

The banks below the Falls are very high and precijntous, and the 
channel contracts to less than a thousand feet, varying in the descent 
to Lake Ontario, from 200 to 400 yards. 

The entire river, from its source to its mouth, is an interesting 
geological study. The changes that have taken place in the formation 
of its banks, and the topography of the country through which it 
passes, furnish much food for conjecture, upon which several theories 
have been constructed, one of which seems to be quite xmiversally 
adopted, viz., that the Falls have gradually receded from a point below 




AMERICAN FALL, FROM BELOW, 



NIA(JARA FALLS. 21 

tlieii- present location, some say as far down as the high bhitl' at Lewis- 
ton, seven miles from Lake Ontario. 

This recession is clue to the action of the water upon the sections of 
the I'ocky bed which have successively formed the verge of the cataract, 
and which have doubtless varied in character along the course of the 
river. The action of the spray and the violence of the rebounding 
waters, combined perhaps with other causes, wore away the softer, 
shaly substratum, imtil the harder but thinner upper sti-atum could no 
longer siippox't tlie massive weight and resist the velocity of the waters, 
and fell into the channel below. This theory is abimdantly supported 
not only by the appearance of the Falls and the channel, but by sev- 
eral occurrences of exactly this chai-acter. In 1818, massive fragments 
fell from the American fill, and in 1828 a like occurrence took place in 
the Horseshoe Fall, in each instance producing a concussion like an 
earthqiiake. 

A view of the Falls by Father Hennepin, made in the year 1678, 
presents the feature of a distinct fall on the Canada side, somewhat 
like that on the American side, or nearly at right angles with the main 
ftill. This was occasioned by a great rock, which divided the current 
and turned a portion of it in that direction, and which has evidently 
since fallen. (See engraving on page 36.) 

How long a time would be required for the Falls to recede to Lake 
Erie, is of course conjectiiral, as no data of sufficient reliability can Ije 
established fi'om which to make a calculation. Indeed, it is believed 
by some geologists that higher up the river the formation of the bed is 
of such a character as to successfully resist the further encroachments of 
the water in that direction, the hard formation being of greater depth 
and tirmness. 

But to the present generation Niagara Falls will remain an object 
of gi'eat interest, and will doubtless continue to receive, as in the past^ 
the visits of great multitudes of tourists, either on account of their real 
attractiveness, or because it is the fashion. 

With this general view of the Falls, the reader will be pre))ared for 
the details, which, taken together, make up the comprehensive whole, 
and which constitiite a visit to Niagara an event re})lete with lasting 
memories. 

It detracts not a little fi'om the enjoyment of the spectator to tind 
that at this resort the oriental demand for " backsheesh " prevails in 
the modified form of tolls, fees, etc., and that tvhat is here enjoyed in 
the line of sight-seeing must be paid for. Yet this is not to be won- 
dered at when we consider that the parties who own the vantage 
ground must thus reap from it a sustaining harvest. What is legiti- 
mately demanded of the visitor in the way of tolls and admission fees 
may be considered as a sine qua non, and should not in the least mar 
his pleasure, as he receives in such cases a full equivalent for his 
expenditure. 



I'l CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

"TRICKS THAT ARE [NOT ALWAYS] VAIN." 

There is one thing, however, which no tourist is prepared to meet 
with composure, and which h.e will need to guard againt here, namely, 
extortion, or an unexpected or unreasonalile demand for money in pay- 
ment for services not contracted for nor supposed to be in the market. 




HORSESHOE FALLS AND KAPIDS. 

Much has been said and written about the extortions of Niagara hack- 
men, until their practices have become a byword. In justice to some 
of these individuals it should be said that there are among them hon- 
orable men, who will do by you just as they agree, and will make no 
effort to defraud. It is always safe, however, to make an agreement 
with your driver as to the service he is to render you, and just what 
you are to pay him in return. When the terms of yonr contract are 
met, accejit no further service without 'understanding its cost. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 23 

The need of this precaution will be apparent from the following 
fiicts. The lawful rate for carrying a })assenger from one ])oint to an- 
other in the villages aboiit the Falls is tifty cents, or one dollar from 
^•illage to village ; yet a driver Avill frequently offer to carry a 
jiassenger for fen cents. Once in the carriage, however, he is urged to 
see this and that ])oint of interest, and with the memory of the ten-cent 
o.fer as a basis for prospective expenses, he often yields to the impor- 
tunities of the hackman, until he finds to his dismay that he has run 
up a bill, by the legal tariff, of from three to live dollai's. While the 
man is charging him only what the law allows him to collect, the vic- 
tim is chagrined at the method by which it is extorted from him, and 
it rankles as an unpleasant memory in his otherwise pleasurable rec- 
ollections of his visit. 

We have been thus expli(;it in treating upon a suljject to which no 
Niagara guide book we have ever seen gives more than a passing allu- 
sion, in order that the tourist may know what to expect, and how to 
meet it in the very outset. If you choose to accept of a hackman's "ten- 
cent" ofier, be sure that you take no more than is "nominated in the' 
liond," lest with the "pound of flesh " there come a drop of blood moi'e 
costly than all the rest. 

THE FIRST VIEW OF THE FALLS. 

The approach to Niagara, by the line of the Michigan Central, is by 
a route nearly parallel with the river, from above on the Canada shore, 
and is beyond question, the best view to be had from any railroad train 
conveying its passengers near the place. As the train draws near the 
mighty cataract, the foaming rapids above the Falls burst upon the 
view, as if to prepare the mind for the exhibition of resistless power to 
l)e revealed in the grand plunge of waters into the abyss below. 

In a few moments the ti'ain comes to a halt in full view of the Falls, 
with the Horseshoe or Canada Fall in the foreground, and Goat Island 
and the American Fall directly across the river, with the deep gorge 
between through which the river flows, spanned by the new suspension 
bridge. The picture thus presented is one of surpassing beauty. 
While a nearer v^iew will impi-ess the mind more completely with the 
sublime majesty of the cataract, the com})rehensi^•e grouping here pre- 
sented will linger in the mind of a ti'ue lover of the beautiful, promi- 
nent among the "pictures that hang on memory's wall." 

The through passengers, who make no tarry at the Falls, remain in 
the cars until the train arrives at Suspension Bridge, two miles below, 
this arrangement continuing for the present season, until the comple- 
tion of the new bridge now in process of erection by the Michigan Cen- 
tral C'Ompany. When this structure is completed, the trains will cross 
the river in full view of the Falls. This, in addition to the view now 
obtained from the train, will ])rove a strong attraction to through trav- 
elers, inducing them to come by this route.. 



24 



CHICA(iO TO THE SEA. 



NIAGARA FALLS, ONTARIO. 

This village, formerly known as Clifton, extends along the Canada 
shore of Niagara River, from near the Falls to the railroad sus})ension 
bridge. The tourist who wishes to ins2)ect the cataract first from the 
Canada side, leaves the train at Magara Falls station ; and slunild he 
choose to find a temporary abiding place on the Canada side, he will 
find several well-kept hotels, at prices varying according to accommo- 




AMERICAN FALL, As rSEEN FKUM CANADA SIDE. 



dations desired. The largest and most commodious of these is the 
Clifton House, which has been open to the public for more than forty 
years, and has established a reputation as in all respects a lirst-class 
house. 

The Prospect House is almost on the very verge of the Falls, 
being located at Table Rock, and commands a tine view. The house 
has an excellent reputation, its j)atrons being among the most cele- 
brated of the visitors, both from America and abroad. 

The Brunswick, located a little farther down the bank than the 
house just mentioned, — ^just far enough, the proprietor claims, to be 
fi'ee from the annoyance of mist and spray, biit sufficiently near to give 
a beautiful prospect from its windows and balconies, — furnishes a 
pleasant stopping place, less pretentious than some of its larger rivals, 
but with all its appointments complete, and well calculated to promote 
the comfort of its patrons. It can take good care of large or small 
parties, and is indeed a desirable stop[)ing place for those who wish to 
tarry for a single day, or for a longer jjeriod, the terms being moderate 
and the fare excellent. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 



25 



Other houses there are on this side, of which the limits of this work 
forbid even a mention. Indeed, the provisions for the care of tourists 
indicate that for a considerable portion of the year at least, that con- 
stitutes by far the largest business of the dwellers in the vicinity. 

The Canada shore can claim one point over all other localities in 
the vicinity of the Falls, in being the only place where a good view of 




TAJ3LE UOCK. 



the cataract can be had -without the payment of toll or admittance fees. 
The eft'ort now being made to create a public park on the ]!^ew York 
shore, and thus secure similar piivileges in the " land of the free," is 
attracting much attention from tourists. Its results ai-e as yet con- 
jectural, but so much has the value of the property become enhanced 
by the very practices which this plan proposes to abolish, it seems now 
like a great undertaking to accomplish what a few years ago would 
have been much more easily brought about. 

There are opportunities, however, to pay fees on the Canada side, 
and to receive an equivalent in return. A staircase leading to the foot 
of the Horseshoe Fall, permits a tine view from l;)elow, and in addition 



26 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

a visit to the cavernous recess under Table Rock and Horseshoe Fall. 
For the latter excursion, watei-proof suits and the services of a guide 
are necessary, and the experience is one long to be remembered. 

TABLE ROCK. 

Table Rock itself is an object of much curiosity. It is an overhang- 
ing clitf, extending along the bank to the very junction with the Horse- 
shoe Fall. Its shape and dimensions have been several times changed 
within the memory and observation of the present generation, and "the 
oldest inhabitants " remember it as projecting far beyond its present 
limits. In July, 1818, a mass some thirty or forty feet wide, and 
about one hundred and sixty feet in length, fell into the bed of the 
river. In December, 1828, three sections, comprising a very large 
portion of the overhanging clitf, and extending to the verge of the 
Horseshoe Fall, broke otl' and fell with a terrible crash. In the slim- 
mer of 1829, another large mass separated and fell, and in June, 18.50, 
still another, the latter about 60 feet wide by. 200 long. The precipice 
still hangs far out over the perpendicular, and with these losses in 
view, the reader can readily imagine its appearance before the action of 
the elements had robbed it of so much that made it celebrated. 

Several other objects of interest are to be seen on the Canada side, 
which Avill be mentioned further on in these pages, and we will now 
proceed to a description of the principal objects of interest immediately 
connected with the Falls. In crossing the river to the American 
shore, the visitor has a choice of two methods. He may descend the 
bank and cross by the ferry, or may go over the New Suspension 
Bridge. If intending to return, he will do well to go over by the 
bridge and i-e-cross by the ferry. 

THE NEW SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 

This structure, although opened to the public in 1869, is still called 
the new bridge, to distinguish it from its elder brother, two miles 
below. Previous to the construction of the New York and Brooklyn 
bridge, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world, its roadway 
being 1,300 feet in length, and its cables 1,800 feet long. It is 190 
feet above the river, being suspended from two towers, each 100 feet in 
height. Access may be had to the interior of the towers, and very tine 
views are obtained from their summits. 

From the bridge itself a magnificent view of the Falls may be had, 
the finest, in fact, to be secured from any one point, the entii-e line of 
the cataract being embraced in a single glance, and in closer proximity 
than is possible elsewhere, except from below. The view down the 
river is also a fine one, comprising the deep gorge through which the 
stream flows, with its precipitous banks on either hand, and tlie Rail- 
road Suspension Bridge in the distance. 

The strength of the new bridge is estimated by the engineers as 



NIAGARA PALLS. 



27 



thirteen times greater than sntHcient to bear any weight that can pos- 
sibly be phxced npon it. The year of its completion it was subjected to 
the sevei-est gale it has ever had to withstand, and safely and success- 
fnlly "weathered the blast." All fears, therefore, as to its security in 
ordinary weathei-, are entirely groundless. 




VIEW OF THE FALLS FKOM THE FERRT. 



Reaching the American shore by this method of crossing, the first 
point of intei-est is 

PROSPECT PARK. 

Depositing the fee of 2o cents at the toll-gate, we are soon within the 
privileged domain. The grounds are what were foi'merly known as the 
"Ferry Grove" and "Point View," and previous to their improvement 
were free to the public. The Company who purchased them, however, 
have provided an almost endless variety of artificial adjuncts to render 
the place attractive, and the small fee exacted for admission is not, 
therefore, an unreasonable one. 

At the verge of the Ameiican Fall, they have constructed a solid 
wall at what is now called " Prospect Point," extending it all along the 
brink of the precipice, thus rendering secure from accident the place 
where the finest view of the Fall can be obtained. Looking uja the 
stream, the foaming rapids, white-ci*ested and tumultuous, greet the 
vision in a continuous stretch, until water and sky seem to blend. In 



28 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

the immediate foreground is the American Fall, its waters almost in 
reach of the outstretched hand. Directly across the stream are Luna 
and Goat Islands, while sweeping away to the right in a grand curve, 
is the Horseshoe Fall. The American Fall is year by year assuming 
the horseshoe form, by the wearing away of the clifi" in the center, the 
indentation in the front line of the Fall Ijeing quite prominently visible 
from Prospect Point, although less noticeable from a front view. 

The visitor who may be disposed to carry away a souvenir of this 
locality will find a skilHul photographer in readiness to make pictures, 
stereoscopic or otherwise, of from one to twenty ])ersons, with both the 
American and the Horseshoe Fall as a background. 

Near the Point is located a bazaar for the sale of curiosities, in 
itself a museum well worthy of a visit, whether to purchase be the in- 
tention, or only to inspect the ai'ticles exposed for sale. 

The Ferry House is near the center of the Park, and is the upper 
terminal station of the 

INCLINED PLANE RAILWAY. 

A tunnel has been cut from the clifl' to the margin of the river, at 
an angle of about thirty degrees, and within it is built the railway, by 
the side of which is a Hight of stairs, numbering 290 steps. The cars 
are raised and lowered by machinery, operated by a tui'bine wheel, and 
are so arranged that one ascends while the other descends. This rail- 
way has been in successful operation, without a castialty, for nearly 
forty years. The timid, however, to whom the descent appears peril- 
ous, have the choice of the stairway for reaching the river, and many 
prefer to trust their own limbs in the climb, but are generally glad to 
avail themselves of the car in returning. At the foot of the stairs, a 
commodious building has been erected, from which a view of the Falls 
from below may be had through windows which protect the visitor 
from the spray. A nearer view may be obtained by donning a water- 
jjroof suit, for which facilities are provided in the dressing-rooms, and, 
with a trusty guide, taking a promenade upon " HuiTicane Bridge," at 
the very foot of the American Fall, completing the trip by going be- 
hind the cataract itself, which may be done in safety, and constitutes 
a novel experience. The cavernous recess behind the curtain of falling 
water extends neai'ly to the center of the Fall, and is tilled with the 
dashing spray which pei-petually rises from the cauldron of waters. 
The roar of the cataract echoes and re-echoes within this chamber, the 
eftect being heightened by the compression of the air ; and the combined 
etfect upon the senses as one thus stands as it were within the very 
grasp of Nature's most powerful forces, serves to show the contrast 
between puny man and his omnipotent Creator. 

Between the foot of the Inclined Plane and the Canada shore, a 
line of ferry boats has been established, aifording a safe and pleasant 
method of transit between those points, and a view of the Falls from 
the river level. The best time for this trip is early in the morning or 



NIAGARA FALLS. 29 

an hour or two before sunset, and the impressions made upon the mind 
in connection with it, will be among the most lasting of all the recollec- 
tions of Niagara. 

Returning to the Park by the stairway or the car, as the traveler 
may elect, we continue our examination of the objects of interest to be 
found within its limits. Its shady groves and pleasant walks, rem- 
nants of the natural forest improved by the hand of art, furnish 
delightful resting places or promenades ; and its Art Gallery, Concert 
Hall, Pavilion, and other provisions for entertainment, serve to engage 
the attention of the visitor, and make pleasant the hours that pass 
while within the Park. 

ELECTRIC ILLUMINATION. 

One of the most enjoyable features of the visit to Prospect Park is 
that provided for the hours of evening. The illumination of the Falls 
and fountains by the electric light is a pleasing spectacle, and well 
worthy of a tarry to see. The electricity for the purpose is developed 
by one of the largest sized dynamo machines, kept in operation by a 
powerful turbine wheel, located in the Ferry building, the water-jwwer 
supplied by a canal. The brilliant light thus produced is concentrated 
upon the Falls and Rajiids, both in clear white and with prismatic 
etiects, rendering them even more beautiful by night than in the full 
liglit of day. 

An arrangement of fountains in which the waters are made to 
assume a vai-iety of shapes, with revolving wheels and jets of spray, 
the whole illuminated with shifting lights of all colors, constitutes an 
exhibition amply rewarding a long journey to behold. The observer is 
fascinated by the ever-changing colors and gorgeous etiects, more l)eau- 
tiful than any pyrotechnic display, which it very much resembles, only 
"with intensitied brilliancy of coloring, and more enduring in form. 

GOAT ISLAND. 

Passing out at the g:ite of Prospect P;irk, a short walk brings us to 
the toll-house of Goat Island, at the end of the bridge leading across to 
the group of islands which divide the cataract into its two distinctive 
pnrts. The largest of these bears the above name, which was given to 
it from a trivial circumstance, illustrating how easily a nickname or 
title becomes fastejied "to stay" with a few repetitions, eveii from an 
unauthorized soiirce. More than a century ago, a Mr. John Stedman 
placed some goats oii the upper end of the Island, and thi-ough neglect 
they were suiFei-ed to remain uncored for during the winter, and died 
from exposure. Hence the name, which adheres to it, in preference to 
its authorized name of ''Iris Island." 

The gi-oup comprises, in all, some seventeen islands, large and 
small, covering about sixty acres. The property belongs to the estate 
of the late Judge Porter, to whom it was ceded by the State of New 
York in 1818. Its possession at that time was regarded as of little 



30 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



consequence, and the attempt to jiut a bridge across was deemed fool- 
hardiness ; but it is said that an ofler of a million and a half dollars 
has recently been refused for the estate. 

The first bridge was a frail structure, and was soon carried away. 
It was replaced by a stronger one, which stood from 1818 to 1856, 
when it was removed, and the present elegant structure substituted. 
The foundations are heavy oaken cribs, tilled with stone and plated 
with iron. The bridge itself is of iron, in four arches, each of ninety 




GOAT-ISLAND BRIDGE. 



feet span, making a total length of three hundred and sixty feet. Its 
width is twenty-seven feet, comprising a double carriageway, with foot- 
way on either side. The bridge is a favorite [)lace from which to view 
the Ra2:)ids, as the waters near the precipice below. 

The lirst island of the group is Bath Island, which is utilized as the 
site of manufacturing enterprise, a large paper-mill occupying a posi- 
tion to command some portion of the splendid water-power so idly 
expending itself for naught. Crossing by a bridge of a single span to 
Goat Island, we find ourselves in a spot where Nature has been com- 
paratively undisturbed. The forest remains almost in its prime\-al 
simplicity, which fact renders this a most charming and popular resort. 
Indeed, a visit to Niagara would be sadly incom])lete were Goat Island 
and its attractions to be omitted. 

Ascending a slight rise from the bridge, the road leads into a shady 
forest, and branches in three directions. The best method of visiting 
the points of interest is to first turn to the right, and follow the road 
or path to the foot of the Island, emerging from the forest near the 
stairwav and bridge leading to 



NIAGARA FALLS. 31 



LUNA ISLAND. 



Tliis small but ]tleasant little islet divides the American Fall into 
two sections, the stream over wliicli we cross from Goat Island consti- 
tuting what is known as the Center Fall, beneath which is the Cave of 
the Winds. The island lies low, and the visitor may touch the water 
with the hand. The vei'ge was formerly unguarded, l3ut an iron i-ailing 
now prevents a repetition of the melancholy accident that occurred 
here on the 21st of June, 1849, when the family of Mi-. Deforest, of Buf- 
falo, in company with a friend, Mr. Chai-les Addington, were visiting the 
scene. The latter, playfully catching xip Annette, the little daughter 
of Mr. Deforest, said, *' I am going to throw you in." With a sudden 
impulse, the child sprang from his arms into the water. Horrified at 
the result of his pleasantry, Mr. Addington sprang after her, and both 
were immediately carried over the Falls. The mangled remains of the 
child were recovered the same day, in the Cave of the Winds, and the 
body of the unfortunate voimg man a few days later. 

Returning to Goat Island, a short walk brings us to the building 
used as the dressing-room in which to prepare for a visit to the 

"CAVE OF THE WINDS." 

This trip is made by ladies as well as gentlemen, water-pi-oof suits 
being provided for any who wish to explore the famous cavern, and 
experienced guides are in readiness to accompany the visitor. The 
descent to the foot of the clitt" is here made without the aid of machin- 
ery, by means of a spiral staircase known as 

"BIDDLE'S STAIRS." 

This structure takes its name from the Hon. Nicholas Biddle, the 
well-known president of the United States Bank, at whose expense the 
enterprise of biiilding it was carried out in 1829. The bank at this 
place is 185 feet high. Part of this descent is accomplished by an 
open stairway, of ordinary inclination, and the remainder by the per- 
pendicular shaft or tower, which is 8U feet high, the whole comprising 
147 steps. 

From the foot of the tower, a pathway to the right, under the 
shadow of the overhanging clifi", leads to the Center Fall, which consti- 
tutes the aqueous curtain of "Coins' Cavern." A secure stairway 
leads to the entrance of the Cave, and the visitor passes under the 
Fall, into the stormy recess made in the solid rock. The Cavern de- 
rives its name from the peculiar atmospheric effects produced by the 
action of the falling water, the compression of the air establishing a 
perpetual tempest, like that in which ^olus, the god of the wind, is 
said to dwell. 

The Cave is 100 feet high by 100 deep and 160 long, and its exist- 
ence is due to the action of the waters upon the shale, leaving the more 
solid limestone rock overhanging. 




fefeSf J&ri^^i^A^ 



rXDER THE CATARACT. 



NIAGARA PALLS. 33 

As one of the many novel experiences to be met in a visit to 
Niagara, the trip through this Cave will leave a lasting impression 
upon the memory. The sensations which wind and storm will always 
produce are here intensified by the novelty of the surroundings, and 
the realization of the feet that the forces of Nature are perpetually ac- 
complishing here what they occasionally produce in the outer world. 
Add to this the s])ice of peisonal risk, really less than it seems to he, 
and the recollections of the occasion will be vivid and enduring. 

From the foot of the stairway, another path leads to the river in 
front, and still another toward the Canadian or Horseshoe Fall. The 
latter is but little used, and is not kept in good condition. From a 
scadblding 100 feet high, erected near the stairway in 1829, Sam 
Patch made his famous leap into the river, successfully accomplishing 
a feat, the repetition of which at Genessee Falls, shortly after, cost him 
his life. 

Returning to the bank above, and continuing the walk along the 
brink, the next interesting jioint of observation is 

TERRAPIN BRIDGE AND ROCK. 

A staii'way leads down to the Bridge, which crosses over to the 
Rock where for forty years the well-known Terrapin Tower constituted 
a landmark to be seen from all directions, standing as it did at the 
very verge of the Fa*lls. The rock itself furnishes a favorable outlook, 
aflbrding a near view of the Horseshoe Fall. The bridge is liable to 
be slippery from the action of the spray, and care should be exercised 
to avoid accident. In the winter of lo52, a gentleman while in the 
act of crossing fell into the stream, and was carried to the very verge 
of the Fall. By a remarkably fortunate circumstance, he lodged be- 
tween two I'ocks, when he was discovered by some of the citizens, who 
rescued him by life lines, which he succeeded in fastening around his 
body. He was cariied to a hotel, and remained speechless for several 
hoiirs, so great was the shock to his nervotts system. 

THE CANADIAN OR HORSESHOE FALL, 

Which is here seen to the V)est advantage, is about 1-44- rods wide, and 
158 feet high. The depth of the water in the center is estimated at 20 
feet. An experiment to demonstrate the depth was made in 1827. 
An tinseaworthy vessel, drawing 18 feet of water, increased by leakage 
to more than 20 feet, was sent over the Falls, and cleared the ledge 
without touching. 

The name " Horseshoe " is hardly true to the present shape, which 
is now more nearly rectangidar. The horseshoe curve has been marred 
by the falling of i)ortions of the cliff at various times, tmtil its original 
symmetry hsis neai-ly departed. The precipice near the Teri-apin Tower 
has sutiered loss from this cause, until it was regarded as unsafe to 
continue the use of the Tower, and it was removed in 1873. 



34 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



Along the south shore of the island, the walk or drive toward the 
east keeps in view the rapids, and leads ns next to the group known as 
the 

THREE SISTER ISLANDS. 

These are connected with Goat Island and with one another by 
three handsome bridges, afibrding a magnificent view of the Rapids, 
the best, in fact, to be had from any point of observation. The scene 
presented from the outer island, as you gaze up the river, upon the 




'W' ^ 



TERRAPIN TOWER.— REMOVED IN 18^3 

vast expanse of foaming, turbulent water, seemingly threatening to 
overwhelm you and the ground on which you stand, and yet dividing 
as it passes you, or abating its fury as it reaches the shore at your feet, 
is one to fill the soul with admiration and awe, as, perhaps, no other 
view can do. The outlook from the bridges also awakens peculiar 
emotions. Standing only a few feet above the rapidly coursing torrent 
as it i^asses beneath you, the thought comes to the mind that here at 
least, "there is but a step betwixt time and eternity." The fascina- 
tion increases as the gaze is prolonged, and the mind which cannot be 



NIAGARA FALLS. 35 

impressed with the sublimity of the scene, must be, like the soul devoid 
of music, " tit for treason, stratagem, and sjjoils." 

At the head of Goat Island, a little farther uj) the river, the view- 
is quite exjiansive, commanding both banks of the stream, and the 
islands in the channel. Beginning at the right, the site of Fort Schlos- 
ser is seen about a mile away, marked by a small white building and a 
very large chimney. The name is associated with border history, the 
fort having been built by the French, afterward ceded to the English, 
and occupied as a military station by G^'aptain 8chlosser, from whom its 
later name was derived, the French having given it the title of Little 
Fort. 

NAVY ISLAND, 

Lying in the channel which sweeps around Grand Island on the Canada 
side, has an area of over three hundred acres, and is associated with 
Fort Schlosser in the annals of border history, having been made the 
rendezvous of the "Patriots " in the "Rebellion " of 18-37, under the 
leadership of McKenzie, who, with about twenty-five or thirty follow- 
ers, became disatiected with the Canadian authorities, and planted their 
standard here as a rallying-] )oint. The Anierican steamer Caroline, a 
small boat supposed to be in the service of the "Rebels," was chartered 
to run between the islands and the American shore. Friday, Dec. 29, 
1837, she entered upon her work of "ferriage," and after a profitable 
day's work was moved to the wliarf at Schlosser's Landing. The same 
night, a deta^chment of British soldiers, under command of Capt. Drew, 
seized her, set her on fire, and the little steamer went down the stream 
in flames, and plunged over the Canadian Fall. The crew, and some 
of the " patriots " who were on board, escaped to the shore, with the 
exception of one man, Durfee, who was killed \>y a pistol shot in at- 
tempting to escape. 

GRAND ISLAND, 

The largest in the Eiver Niagara, is twelve miles in length, its breadth 
varying from two to seven miles. Its soil, unlike that of the islands 
nearer the cataract, is very fertile, and much of it is under ciiltivation. 
Its historic annals are less interesting than those just mentioned, 
although one entei'prise has a monumental reminder, still in a good 
state of j)reservation. A gentleman who in the current vernacular of 
to-day would doubtless be entitled a "crank," conceived the project of 
making this island a place of refuge for the scattered tribes of Israel. 
In 182.5 he laid the corner-stone of the " City of Ararat," and erected 
a monument, with imposing ceremonies. The latter still serves to i"e- 
mind the visitor that " cranks " are not original with the present 
generation. 

At the foot of Grand Island is a smaller one, of al)Out three hun- 
dred acres, called Buckhorn Island. The channel between them is 
called " Burnt Ship Bay," from the destruction of two armed supply 



36 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



vessels by the Fi-ench garrison at Sclilosser, near the close of the French 
war of 1759, to prevent their acquisition by the English. They were 
brought to this bay, and set on hi-e, and the circumstance is thus com- 
memorated Vjy the name of the bay. 

Corner's Island, Gill Creek Island and Grass Island, all of them 
small, lie near the American shore, and are important, commercially or 
historically. 




FATHER IIENXEPIX'S SKETCH OF THE FALLS. 

The first white man who saw the Falls, of whom we have any ac- 
count, was Father Hennepin, the noted explorer. We present above 
a facsimile of the sketch made by him, representing the Falls as they 
were 200 years ago. We also give his extravagant description, pre- 
serving the orthography and the quaint style in which it was written : — 

" Betwixt the Lake Ontario and Erie, there is a vaft and prodig- 
ious Cadence of Water which falls down after a furprizing and afton- 
ifhing manner, infomuch that the Univerfe does not afford its 
Parallel. 'Tis true, Italy and Suedelatid boaft of fome fuch Things; 
but we may well fay they are but forry Patterns, when compar'd to 
this of which we now fpeak. At the foot of this horrible Precipice, 
we meet with the River Niagara, which is not above a quarter of a 
League broad, but is wonderfully deep in fome places. It is fo rapid 
above this Defcent, that it violently hurries down the wild Beafts 



NIAGARA FALLS. 37 

while endeavoring to pafs it to feed on tlie other fide, they not being 
able to withftand the force of its Current, which inevitably cafts them 
headlong above Six hundred foot high. 

"This wonderful Downfal is compounded of two great Crofs- 
ftreams of Water, and two Falls, with an Ifle Hoping along the middle 
of it. The Waters which fall from this horrible Precipice, do foam 
and boyl after the moft hideous manner imaginable, making an out- 
rageous Noife, more terrible than that of Thunder ; for when the 
Wind blows out of the South, their difmal roaring may be heard more 
than Fifteen Leagues off. 

" The River Niagara having thrown it felf down this incredible 
Precepice, continues its impetuous courfe for two Leagues together, to 
the great Rock above-mention'd, with an inexpreffible rapidity: But 
having paft that, its impetuofity relents, gliding along more gently for 
other two Leagues, till it arrive at the Lake Ontario or Frontenac. 

" Any Bark or greater Veffel may pafs from the Fort to the foot of 
this huge Rock above-mention'd. This Rock lies to the Weftward, 
and is cut off from the Land by the River Niagara, about two Leagues 
farther down than the great Fall ; for which two Leagues the People 
are oblig'd to tranfport their Goods over-land ; but the way is very 
good ; and the Trees are but itw, chiefly Firrs and Oaks. 

" From the great Fall unto this Rock which is to the Weft of the 
River, the two Brinks of it are fo prodigious high, that it would make 
one tremble to look fteadily upon the Water, rolling along with a 
rapidity not to be imagin'd. Were it not for this vaft Catara6l, 
which interrupts Navigation, they might fail with Barks or greater 
Veffels, more than Four hundred and fifty Leagues, croffing the Lake 
of Hiirons, and reaching even to the farther end of the Lake Illinois ; 
which two Lakes we may eafily fay are little Seas of frefh Water." 

RETROCESSION OF THE FALLS. 

The following extracts from an article written by Prof. Tyndall will 
be of hiterest in this connection : — 

"The fact that in historic times, even within the memory of man, 
the Fall has sensibly receded, prompts the question, How far has this 
recession gone? At what point did the ledge which thus continually 
creeps backward begin its retrograde course '? To minds disciplined in 
such researches the answer has been and will be, At the precipitous de- 
clivity which crosses the Niagara from Lewiston on the American to 
Queenston on the Canadian side. Over this traverse baxrier the 
affluents of all upper lakes once poured their waters, and here the 
work of erosion began. The dam, moreover, was demonsti'ably of 
sufficient height to cause the river above it to submerge Goat Island, 
and this would perfectly account for the finding by Mr. Hall, Sir 
Charles Lyell, and others, in the sand and gravel of the island, the 
same fiuviatile shells as are now found in the Niagai'a River higher up. 



38 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

It woiikl also account foi' those deposits along the sides of the river, 
the discovery of which enabled I^yell, Hall, and Ramsay to reduce to 
demonstration the popular belief that the Niagara once flowed through 
a shallow valley. 

" The physics of the problem of excavation, which I made clear to 
my mind before quitting iSTiagara, are revealed Vjy a close inspection 
of the pi'esent Horseshoe Fall. Here we see evidently thai the great- 
est weight of water bends over the very apex of the Horseshoe. In a 
passage in his excellent chapter on Niagara Falls, Mr. Hall alludes to 
this fact. Here we have the most copious and the most violent whirl- 
ing of the shattered liquid ; here the most jjowerful eddies recoil 
against the shale. From this portion of the Fall, indeed, the spray 
sometimes rises without solution of continuity to the region of clouds, 
becoming gradually more attenuated, and passing Anally through the 
condition of triie cloud into invisible vapor, which is sometimes re-pre- 
cipitated higher up. All the phenomena point distinctly to the center 
of the river as the place of the greatest mechanical energy, and from 
the center the vigor of the Fall gradually dies away toward the sides. 
The horseshoe form, with the concavity facing downward, is an obvious 
and necessary consequence of this action. Right along the middle of 
the river the apex of the curve pushes its way backward, cutting along 
the center a deep and comparatively narrow groove, and draining fhe 
sides as it passes them. Hence the x"ema]-kable discrepancy between 
the widths of the Niagara above and below the Horseshoe. All along 
its course, from Lewiston Heights to the present position, the form of 
the Fall was probably that of a horseshoe ; for this is merely the ex- 
pression of the greater depth, and consequently greater excavating 
power, of the center of the river. The gorge, moreover, varies in 
width as the depth of the center of the ancient river varied, being nar- 
rowest where that depth was greatest. 

"The vast comparative erosive energy of the Horseshoe Fall comes 
strikingly into view when it and the American Fall are compared to- 
gether. The American bi-anch of the upper river is cut at a right 
angle by the gorge of the Niagara. Here the Horseshoe Fall was the 
real excavator. It cut the rock, and formed the precipice over which 
the American Fall tumbles. But since its foj-mation the ei"osive action 
of the American Fall has been almost nil, while the Horseshoe has cut 
its way for five hundred yards across the end of Goat Island, and is 
now doubling back to excavate a channel parallel to the length of the 
island. This point, I have just learned, has not escaped the acute ob- 
servation of Prof. Ramsay. The river bends ; the Horseshoe imme- 
diately accommodates itself to the bending, and will follow implicitly 
the direction of the deepest water in the upper stream. The flexibility 
of the gorge, if I may use the term, is detei-mined by the flexibility of 
the river channel above it. Were the Niagara above the Fall sinuous, 
the gorge woiild immediately follow its sinuosities. Once suggested, 
no douVjt geographers will be able to point out many examples of this 



NIAGARA FALLS. 39 

action. The Zambesi is thought to i)resent a great ditiiculty to the 
erosion theory, because of the sinuosity of the chasm below the Victoria 
Falls. But assuming the basalt to be of tolerably uniform texture, had 
the river been examined before the formation of this sinuous channel, 
the present zigzag course of the gorge below the Fall could, I am pur- 
suaded, have been predicted, while the sounding of the present river 
would enable us to predict the course to be pursued by the erosion in 
the future. 

"But not only has the Niagara Kiver cut the gorge — it has carried 
away the chips of its own workshop. The shale being prol)ably crum- 
bled, is easily carried away. But at the base of the Fall we find the 
huge boulders already described, and by some means or other these are 
removed down the river. The ice which tills the gorge in winter, and 
which grapples with tlie boulders, has been regarded as the transport- 
ing agent. Probably it is so to some extent. But erosion acts with- 
out ceasing on the abutting points of the boulder, thus withdrawing 
their support, and urging them down the river. Solution also does its 
portion of the work. That solid matter is carried down is proved by 
the difference of depth between the Niagara Biver and Lake Ontario, 
where the river enters it. The depth falls from seventy-two feet to 
twenty feet, in consequence of the deposition of solid matter caused by 
the diminished motion of the river. Near the mouth of the aorse at 
Queenston, tlie depth, according to the Admiralty Chart, is 180 feet; 
well within the gorge, it is 132 feet." 

SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 

Two miles below the Falls, the river is spanned by the structure so 
widely known by the above name. The banks are here very precipi- 
tous, and the river deep and rapid, and the erection of piers in the 
stream being an impossibility, the structure is suspended from cables, 
passing over towers of solid masonry. The following statistics will be 
of interest to those of our readers who revel in figures : — 

Length of span from center to center of towers 

Height of tower above rock on the American side 

" " " " " Canada side 

" " " floor of railway 

" track above water. ... 

Niimber of wii-e cables ... 

Diameter of each cable 

Number of No. 9 wires in each cal)le . 3,659 

L^ltimate aggregate strength of cables 12,400 tons. 

Weight of superstructure . . 800 " 

•' " and maximum loads 1,250 " 

Maximum weight the cable and stays will support 7,309 " 

The bridge is a " two-story " affair, the upper part being used for 
the railway, and the lower for carriages and foot passengers. 



822 


feet. 


88 


a 


78 


a 


60 


a 


258 


a 


4 


" 


lOJ 


r in. 



NIA(iARA FALLS. 



41 



WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS. 

The narrowing of tlie clumnel in the vicinity of the Suspension 
Bridge greatly accelerates the cnrrent, and the tremendous force with 
which it rushes through the gorge from this point to the " Whirlpool," 
throws the water into violent commotion. When it is considered that 
the calculated weight of the water that passes over the Falls every 
hour is 100,000,000 tons, and that this volume of water must find its 
way through a channel only about 300 feet wide, the terrific force with 
which it rushes along may be at least jiartially understood. Although 




WIIIKLPOUL AND HAi'ID.-- 



the depth of the stream is here estimated at 250 feet, the force of the 
current is such as to elevate the water from ten to forty feet above its 
natural level. 

At the Whirlpool, the river takes a sharj) tiu-n almost at a right 
angle, circling around in the cauldron which it seems to have excavated 
for itself, and finally making its exit through a narrow gorge, the vast 
body of water no doubt passing out far below the surface, in a channel 
of immense depth. 

The Whirlpool may be seen to advantage from eithei- tlie Canadian 
or the Amei'ican side. At the latter, the approach is through the 
grounds of De Veaux College, the fee for admission going to the funds 
of the institiition. On the Canada side, extensive preparations have 
lieen made for the accommodation of visitors by the Whirlpool Rapids 
Park Company. 

A river-side walk has been constructed, partially by excavation 
from the side of the clifi", and a delightful park on the bank of the 
river, with plenty of trees and shrubbery, renders a promenade on this 



42 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

shore very attractive. An inclined railway, to facilitate the journey 
between the iipper and lower levels, has been constructed, and equipped 
with cars, operating in a novel and ingenious manner. The cars have 
tanks below the seats ; these tanks are tilled with water from a spring 
at the back of the entrance building, by means of a pipe leading into 
the tank. 50 lbs. weight of water is sufficient to overcome the balance 
of the cars, and to carry tlie loaded car to the foot of the railway, the 
liglit one being simultaneously drawn to the top by the same j)Ower. 
Formerly these cars were operated by steam-power, but the present is 
by far the safest and most economical plan, there being no machinery 
to get out of order, no danger of damage from bursting of boiler, etc., 
the entire apparatus necessary being the check or governor, by whicli 
the person in charge can i-egulate or stop the speed of the car with per- 
fect ease. These cars take 12 passengers each ; the tanks are capable 
of containing 2,800 lbs. of water. As they reach the foot of the in- 
cline, a bolt or pin removes the fastening to the discharge pipe and 
discharges the water, thus leaA'ing the car in i-eadiness for its next 
ascent, which is made in aboiit one and a half minutes. The total 
length of the i-ailroad is 285 feet. 

At the water's edge, a photographic studio is located, thus giving 
to all an opportunity of being portrayed with the Whirlpool Eapids in 
the backgrounds. 

Returning again to the Falls, we hnd on the Canada side several 
points of interest, not yet considered in these pages. At Table Rock 
an opportunity is afibrded of visiting the Museum, a collection of nat- 
ural curiosities, works of art, etc., well worthy of a visit. A zoological 
garden is kept in connection, and an observatory affords a good outlook 
from a lofty stand-point. 

THE BURNING SPRING. 

About a mile above the Falls, reached by a ])leasant diive or walk, 
across Cedar Island, in view of the Rapids, is the natural curiosity 
known as the Burning S})ring, the waters of which are highly charged 
wdth sul[)huretted hydrogen, which burns with a pale Idue Hame when 
ignited. This is supposed to have its origin in a coal formation, l)e- 
lieved by some to be extensive, and worthy of mining. The proprietor, 
however, has not sufficient faith in the feasibility of the scheme to \m- 
dertake it. Clark Hill Islands, a group of live, which are crossed in 
the approach to the burning spring, are in the midst of the rapids, and 
a line carriage drive extends along their outer shores, affording a good 
view of the current, which is here very rapid. These islands are con- 
nected with the main land by two sus])ension bridges, which have been 
named "Castor" and "Pollux." 

On Cedar Island, near the Horseshoe Falls, a Pagoda has been 
erected, over 80 feet in height, from which a magnificent view can be 
had. It is a noticeable landmaik from all points in the vicinity of the 
Falls. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 



43 



LUNDY'S LANE BATTLE FIELD. 

As a spot of no little historical interest, the scene of the decisive 
battle between the English and American foi-ces, July 25, 1814, re- 
ceives many Adsitors, of all nationalities. The ground is about a mile 
and a half due west from the Falls, near the village of Drummondville, 
named in honor of Gen. Druininond, who commanded the British forces 
in the engagement. Two towers have been erected to niark the spot, 
and from their summits a good view is had of the surrounding country. 
It was the writer's good fortune, on the occasion of his first visit to 
the scene, some years ago, to listen to a description of the battle from 
the lips of a surviving participant, who wore the British uniform on 
the occasion, but who gave the American forces great credit for gal- 
lantry in the tight. The total loss, in killed and wounded, was about 
eighteen hundred men. 

DEVIL'S HOLE. 

About half a mile below the Whirlpool, on the Ameidcan side, a 
gloomy cavern in tlie bank has received the above title. It is about 




XIAGAKA RIVEK BELOW THE WHIRLPOOL. 

one hundred feet in depth, and from its forbidding aspect might well be 
regarded as the property of his Satanic majesty. Tradition makes this 
locality the scene of the massacre of the English supply train and es- 
cort in 17(5.3, by the Seneca Indians, instigated by the French traders. 
The train was on its way from Fort Niagara to Fort Schlosser, and 
only three of its number escaped alive, while of the escort only eight 
returned to Fort Niagara. 

Much that would be of interest to the reader might be written con- 
cerning the Falls and the surroundings, but we have already devoted 
a latg^' amount of space to the subject, and must close with a few 



44 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

necessary particulars. For the convenience of those who may need the 
facts, we tabulate the rates of toll, carriage hire, etc., the latter being 
the rate fixed by law as permissible. It may be well to add, however, 
that most of the drivers are wiling to make a special rate, considerably 
lower than those given, and, as previously remarked, this should be 
expressly agreed upon before starting out, including an understanding 
as to the payment of the tolls and gate fees. 

RATES OF TOLL. 
Goat Island | .50 

Cave of the Winds 1.00 

Prospect Park _ .2.5 

Inclined Railway .25 

Shadow of the Rock 1.00 

New Suspension Bridge 25 

Ferry . 25 

Behind Sheet of Water (Table Rock) 1 .00 

Burning Spring .50 

Railway Bridge, over and back .50 

Whirlpool Rapids .50 

Whirlpool - . .50 

RATES OF FARE ALLOWED BY LAW, 

FOR CARRIAGE HIRE WHERE NO EXPRESS CONTRACT IS MADE THEREFOR. 

For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from one place to 
another in the village, 50 cents. 

Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 25 cents. 

For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from any point in 
this village to any point in the village of Suspension Bridge, 1 dollar. 

Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 50 cents. 

Each additional piece of baggage other than ordinary baggage, 12 
cents. 

Children under 3 years of age, free. 

Over 3 years and under 1 4 years, half price. 

Ordinary baggage is defined to be 1 trunk and 1 bag, hat or band- 
box, or other small parcel. 

For carrying one or more passengers, in the same carriage, from 
any point in this village to any point within 5 miles of the limits of 
the village, at the rate of $1.50 for each hour occupied, except that in 
every instance where such carriage shall be drawn by a single horse, the 
fare therefor shall be at the rate of 1 dollar for each hour occupied. 

Hotels. — Although a little out of its natural connection, this subject seems to 
demand at least a paragraph. The constant influx of visitors, especially during 
the summer months has created a demand for hotel accommodations at Niagara, 
■which has been met in the erection of such houses as the Cataract, International, 
Spencer, Niagara, Kaltenbach, Goat Island, and a multitude of others, of various 
grades of excellence, both at the Falls and Suspension Bridge. 



^-^( 




•>THE ST. LAWREHCE RIVE{|,<^ 4,i^ 



HE route to the sea via the St. Lawrence Eiver 
liaving become a great favorite with summer 
tourists, we give in this connection a descrip- 
tion of some of its principal attractions. The 
majestic river, whose channel is the outlet for 
all the waters of the great chain of inland seas, 
runs in a general northeasterly direction, from 
Lake Ontario to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
through a country full of objects of interest 
to the traveler and sight-seer, and Isy its navi- 
gability becomes the medium by which they 
may be reached. 
Lt iMiig Niagara Falls in tlie evening, sleeping cars are 
luu, L'lu. New York C^entral, Rome, Watertown it Ogdens- 
burg, and Utica <k Black River Railroads, to Clayton, ar- 
riving next morning in time to connect with the palace 
day steamers of the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company. 
Should the toui-ist prefer to make the trip by daylight, he 
will find the scenery pleasant and attractive. He will 
thus reach Clayton in the evening, and remain until morning, pi'O- 
ceeding as above. 

The pleasures of a trip down the St. Lawrence, among the cele- 
brated Thousand Islands, through the foaming rapids, and past the 
ch.ai-ming villages which lie along the shore, have been the theme of 
extravagant praise from many a summer tourist, and the constantly 
increasing popularity of this route is ample evidence that they do not 
soon grow old. You may usually tind among the passengers many 
who have made the trip several seasons in succession, and the summer 
resorts of the St. Lawrence are visited by the same tourists year after 
year, so many and varied are the charms presented. 

LAKE OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

Clayton, the steamljoat landing of the American Line, is upon 
the shore of the river where it broadens out among the group of islands 
of nearly double the numV)er indicated by the name. The trip there- 




THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 



47 



fore commences in the midst of beautiful scenery, to continue in a suc- 
cession of delights and surprises, until its close at the wharf in Mont- 
real. One and a half miles from Clayton is Round Island Park, 
occupying the island from which it takes its name. A lovelier spot is 
not to be found. An elegant hotel, numerous cottages, pleasant 
gi-oves, splendid drives, and a beautiful water-front, are among the 
features that contribute to its attractiveness, and give promise of mak- 
ing it the resort par excdlence among the island gems of this beautiful 
river. The association controlling the Park, while supposed to be denom- 
inational, is by no means sectarian, and the largest freedom is allowed 
the occupants, untrammeled by the claims or ca])rices of fashion, such 
as sometimes destrov all lil)r'rtv at f ishionaVde resorts. 




THE LUXURY OF CAMP-LIFE 



Is here enjoyed to its fullest extent. The beautiful groves along the 
shores of the island, reached by boat or the inlan<l paths and drives, 
afford delightful camping-places, while the ready communication with 
the "haunts of civilization " places the conveniences, and even luxuries 
for those who desire them, within easy reach. Round Island is about 



48 



CHTOAOO TO THE SEA. 



a mile in length, and eight hundred to twelve hundred feet wide. Its 
shajje is not correctly indicated by its name, it being more nearly oral 
than round. 




KiiIMi 1-I.ANi 



In summing up the attractions of the ishtnd, we can do no better 
than to employ the langiv^ge of one of its summer residents, who writes 
as follows : — 

What Round Island has not : Marshes, mosquitoes, malaria, 
drinking saloons, accumulated refuse, impure air, impure watei-. 

What Round Island has : The purest and most invigorating air, 
the clearest and most delicious water, the pleasantest drives, inviting 
walks, beautiful views, unparalleled scenery, facilities for amusement, 
accommodations for rest, cleanliness, healthfulness, between thirty and 
forty cottages, an elegant hotel, fifty -live acres of lawn, a two-mile 
driving track, bathing houses, and every convenience to make cottage 
or hotel life charming. 

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. 

More widely known, perhaps, than any of the other St. Lawrence re- 
sorts, is the great camp-meeting pai'k of the Methodist denomination bear- 
ing the above title. It is located at the xipper end of Wells Island, and 
has rapidly gi-own to large propoxtions, combining, as it does, the re- 
ligious, social and pleasure-seeking elements, often united in the same 
individuals. It has a large village of permanent cottages, which is 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 49 

gi'eatly increased in the summer bv the "cotton liouses " of those who 
come for a brief stay, either in atten(hince iipon the religious services 
oi- for a short respite from biisiness in camp life. It has a post-othce, 
])ublic l)uildings, stores, and the conveniences of town life, together 
■with boat houses, landings, dock room, etc., ;nid being in the main 
channel of the river, it is readily accessible to visitors, as the boats 
make it one of their important landings. 

WESTMINSTER PARK. 

The lower portion of Wells Island is also under the control of a re- 
ligious association, being owned by a regularly chartered society called 
the Westminster Park Association. With the usual conservatism of 
people of the "orthodox" faith, there is nothing of the camp-meeting 
order here, although services are held in Bethune chapel every Sunday 
during the season. The Park comprises about live hundred acres, oc- 
cupying an irregular neck of upland, rising in some places to a com- 
manding height, overlooking the scene for miles in extent. Tasteful 
cottages occupy the building lots into which a large portion of the Park 
has been divided. An elegant hotel, called the Westminster, under 
excellent management, is kept in tirst-class style, at from two to three 
dollars per day. Dii'ectly opposite from this park, on the New York 
shore, is 

ALEXANDRIA BAY, 

Sometimes called the "Saratoga of the St. La^vi-ence." As a summer 
resort, it is fairly entitled to the name, being one of tJie most popular 
watering places in Amei'ica. Its summer hotels are among the most 
commodious and attractive to be found anywhere, while private cot- 
tages and villas have sprung up on every available site, both on the 
shore, and on all the islands near. The facilities for fishing and boat- 
ing, combined with the pure and invigox-ating atmosjihere, and the 
beautiful scenery, attract to the place a tide of summer visitors, ever 
increasing in volume with each succeeding year. Alexandria Bay is 
only twelve miles from Clayton, and the approach, by boat, is charm- 
ing, as the pretty cottages come in view all along the .shore, succeeded 
liy the imposing hotel fi'onts as the harbor is neared. Among the 
handsome villas, that of the late Dr. J. G. Holland, " Bonnie Castle," 
is a cons]iicuous object, occupying a promontory which projects just be- 
low the landing. 

THE THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE, 

A view of which we here^vith present, is one of the finest hotels, both 
in point of its general arrangements and the natural advantages af- 
foi-ded by its location, to be found at any pleasure resort on the river. 
It is built on the solid rock, near the steamboat landing, and its win- 
dows command an extensive prospect, l>oth up and down the river and 
across the Bay to Westminster Park. The view is still further ex- 



50 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



panded by ascending the lofty tower which adorns the center of the 
structiire, rising 160 feet above the foundation, and surmounted with 
a balcony, affording an outlook of surpassing loveliness and grandeur. 
The hotel is the largest on the river, and will accommodate 700 guests. 
Leaving Alexandria Bay, we are now in the midst of the most 
fashionable part of the Thousand Island group. The residences are 
elegant in style of architecture and general appointments, some of them 




I 



THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE, ALEXANDRIA BAT. 

being very costly, theii' wealthy proprietors having lavished expendi- 
ture upon them with unstinted hand. The captain will call many of 
them by name, the islands having received their titles mostly from 
their present owners and occupants, and are somewhat fanciful and 
often appropriate. For instance " Fairy liand " seems a fitting abode 
for elfin sprites, although equally attractive to humanity. Arcadia, 
Sport Island, Summerland, Manhattan, Imperial, Welcome, Cozy, 



THE ST. LA^yRENCE RIVER. 51 

Nobl)y, and a host of other cognomens, have been be.stowe(l upon the 
charming spots where taste, elegance, and refinement are exhibited, as 
art has imited with natnre in making them veritabk; summer para- 
dises, where, let us hope, no serpent's trail may mar the happiness of 
their possessors. 

The last of the Thousand Islands are called the Three Sisters, from 
their resemblance and proximity to each other. They are nearly op}»o- 
site Brockville on the Canada shore and Morristown on the New York 
side, the two towns being directly oj^posite each other, the former the 
terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and the latter of the Utiea 
it Black River Railroad, needing only a bridge, with these islands as 
resting places for the abutments, to unite the two roads in one contin- 
uous line. Brockville, named in honor of General Brock, is called the 
" Queen City of the St. Lawx-ence," and there is something regal in its 
appearance to warrant the bestowment of the title. Its glittering 
towers and church spires give ,an appearance of splendor, which the 
tourist will observe as a peculiarity of the Canadian cities to be seen in 
his trip, the metal with which they are covered retaining its brightness 
in a, remarkable degree, owing to the purity and dryness of the atmos- 
phere. 

OGDENSBURG AND PRESCOTT. 

These two cities, like those last mentioned, are opposite each other, 
and are both important points. Ogdensburg is the terminus of the 
Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg, the Utica & Black River, and Og- 
densburg it Lake Champlain Railroads, the two former coming from 
the West and the latter from the East. The city lies on both sides of 
the Oswegatchie Ri\'er, at its junction with the St. Lawrence. On ac- 
count of its beautiful foliage, it has been appropriately entitled Maple 
City. Its extensive river front, with its railroad facilities, gives it a de- 
cided advantage as a grain port. Large elevators and warehouses for 
the ti-anshipment of grain and other freight from the lake steamers are 
among the important enterprises of the place. 

The direct route to the Adirondacks from Ogdensburg is via the 
Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain Railroad, on the line of which is also 
located the recently discovered but already famous Chateaugay Chasm. 
As the western section of the all-rail line from Ogdensburg to Portland, 
this railroad is also assuming considerable importance as a tourist route 
to the White Mountains and other resorts, and will receive due notice 
in a separate chapter. 

Prescott, on the oitposite bank of the St. Lawrence, is connected 
with Ogdensburg by ferry, the boats being of sufficient capacity to 
transfer cars, and making regular trips. The railroad interests of this 
place are concentrated in the Grand Trunk and the St. Lawrence & 
Ottawa division of the Canadian Pacific. 

Massena Landing, where passengers destined for Massena Springs 
go ashore, is soon j)assed, and now a perceptible increase is noticeable 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 53 

in the velocity of the current. The interest among the pas.sengers, if 
it has anywhere been allowed to tlag, now becomes re-awakened, as 
the word goes along the line that the famous 

RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE 

Will soon add zest to the journey. There are several courses of these 
rapids, those we are now entering being the Gallopes, which, com- 
pared with some of the others, are of biit little interest, except as a 
foretaste of what is to come. Next we enter and pass the Rapid de 
Plan, and the excitement dee'pens as the foaming, seething waters just 
ahead proclaim the approach to the famous Long Sault (pronounced *S'oo). 
This is the longest of the series, being a continuous descent for nine 
miles, with the current running at a speed of twenty miles an ho\ir. 
A canal, eleven miles in length, extends around this rapid, with seven 
locks, facilitating the descent of such crafts as are unable to cope with 
the rapids, and also permitting the return of the steamers. Four sim- 
ilar canals are to be met at various places along the river. 

At Dickenson's Landing, just before entering the Long Sault, the 
passengers are transferred to the "Prince Arthur," a boat constriicted 
expressly for " shooting the rapids," which steams out from the land- 
ing, with its bow headed toward the angry waters, as if in defiance of 
their power. The increasing speed, and especially the perceptible descent, 
soon awaken the interest of the dullest among the passengers, and as the 
boat lurches to the right or left (or, in nautical phrase, to the starboard 
or port), to escape destruction from some ledge which the trusty pilot 
knows how to avoid, the excitement deepens and increases, and the 
half hoiir recpiired for the passage of the Long Sault is crowded lull of 
alternating delight, fear and exhilaration, quickening the pulse and 
giving zest to the journey, not to be appreciated except by those who 
experience it. 

At the foot of this Rapid, the placid waters of Lake St. Francis are 
entered, and the conti-ast between the tranquil surroundings and the 
tumult and excitement just passed through brings a grateful sense of 
relief, and the lovely scenery among which the boat now glides for 
twenty-five miles, is all the more keenly appreciated. The call to din- 
ner, which is served during the passage of this lake, is a welcome one, 
and the passengers are now ready to descend to the level of things ma- 
terial and substantial, which they find spread in abundance in the din- 
ing saloon. 

After dinner, and a quiet stroll on deck, a little more experience 
with rapids is in order. Passing Coteau du Lac, we enter the Coteau 
Rapids, descending quickly to the Cedars, Split Rock and Cascade 
Rapids. In passing the Cedars, a peculiar sensation is experienced, as 
the boat a]ipears to settle down occasionally with great suddenness, as 
though about to be submerged. This is siipposed to be owing to a 
strong undercurrent which exerts this influence on the boat as she 
}>asses from one ledge of rock to another, although they are at a safe 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 



55 



distance below her keel. The passage of the Split Rock Rajjids seems 
dangerous, as indeed it would l)e were the jtilot to forget for a moment 
the grave responsibility of his trust, and fail to swerve tlie boat at just 
the right moment to avoid some rock or ledge that threatens destruction 
to the craft. 

Occasionally a i-aft may be seen in conflict with the rushing waters, 
apparently at the mercy of the current. The venturesome lumbermen 
generally manage, however, to " put in an oar " to good advantage in 
steering clear of the rocks, although not always successful in guiding 
their frail crafts into quiet waters. An occasional wreck is the result 
of these ventures, as the scattering logs in the channel attest. 




RAFTS IX THE KAPIDS. 



The Cascades are so called from their resemblance to a series of 
short, leaping falls. Passing the Cascades, we enter upon another 
broad expanse of water, the river here widening into Lake St. Loiiis, re- 
ceiving also the waters of the Ottawa River. This lake is twelve miles 
long by about six in bi-eadth, and the ride across its quiet waters just 
precedes the culminating excitement of the trip, — the daring passage of 
the 

FAMOUS LACHINE RAPIDS. 

At the head of tJiese Rapids is the ])retty little Indian village of 
Lachine, and hei'e comes aboard our Indian pilot, Bai^tiste by name, 
who has piloted the boats through the Lacliine Rapids for forty years. 
These Rapids are the most perilous in all the river's extent, on account 



56 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



of the devious nature of the channel, and the dangerous rocks which lie 
just enough below the surface to deceive any but the skillful navigator. 
The swarthy giant who takes the wheel at this point pays little atten- 
tion to anything but the duty in hand, and that seems to demand all 
his energies. Casting alternate glances at him and at the nishing 
watei's aliead of us, we involuntarily breathe the words of the hymn, 

" Steady, O pilot, stand firm at the wheel." 

Right in our path lies a ragged rock, which threatens us with in- 
stant destruction ; but a turn of the wheel at just the right moment 
sends our good craft a little to the left of it, and the apparent danger is 
past. With bated breath we watch for the next peril that looms ahead 
of us, to find it, like its predecessor, vanquished by the strong arm and 
steady nerve of the man to whom every yich of the channel is as fa- 
miliar as a beaten path. 

Entering once more into (juiet waters, we steam on our way toward 
Montreal, and soon the horizon is marked with the long line of the fa- 
mous Victoria Bridge, which rises higher and higher as we approach 
it, until we glide under it and are soon at the wharf of the American 
Line, at the close of a day that has been tilled with a succession of de- 
lights unapproachable in a day's experience in travel elsewhere on the 
Ameiican Continent. 




CANADIAN CARRYALL. 



xr^ 





MOKII^ 



AND 



;^ QUEBEC. V'> 



TOUR from the West to the East which did not 
inckide a visit to the chief cities of Canada woukl 
>e indeed incomplete. Hence, in the arrangement 
of Slimmer excursions, the River 8t. Lawrence 
comprising a pai*t of the trip, it is both easy and 
natural to embrace these jDoints of interest. 

MoxTREAL is the metropolis of British North 
America. Its situation, both from a scenic and 
commercial point of view, renders it attractive to the 
touiist and prosperous as a business center. Its loca- 
tion is on an island in the St. Lawrence, at the base of 
Mt. Royal, which gives the city its name. The view of 
the city from the river, with the mountain in the background is beau- 
tiful and impressive, and when this is su2:)pleraented by the grand pic- 
ture exhil)iteil from the summit of the mountain, with the river and 
the Victoria Bridge in the distance, the observer is ready to exclaim, 
" Beautiful for situation! " 

On arriving in Montreal, whether by boat or rail, the traveler is 
impressed with the idea that the entire population must indulge in 
riding, so numerous ai-e the hackmen, or carters, as they are called, to 
be seen at every hotel, depot and landing. Their easy one or two- 
horse carriages are at your service for long or short trips, and their 
prices are very reasonable, being regulated by law. The fare from 
point to point within the city is twenty-live cents for one or two pas- 
sengers, and fifty cents for three or four, although the usual custom of 
the driver is to charge twenty -five cents for each passenger, and collect 
it if he can. If }ou go outside the city limits, make a bargain in ad- 
vance. In fact, there is safety in giving this rule a general application 
wherever you need the services of a hackmaii, and thereby always 
.avoiding contention in settlement. 



iil||||l|L 



n 

ill"''''' 
iilll! 

m 



iiiiiifeiil?;']i\ 




i|yi 



•-*.* i/Vlii/i' 



MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 59 

THE HOTELS 

Of Montreal are excellent, comprising, among the most eleg;int, the 
Ottawa, Windsor, and St. Lawrence Hall. The Albion Hotel has for 
many years been a great favoiite with American tourists, both from 
the personnel of its management and the reasonableness of its charges. 
The Montreal House, the American, the Richelieu, and a host of other 
claimants for [)atronage, all have their special merits, and are well- 
spoken of by their visitors. 

Sight-seeing, in the city and vicinity, is best accomplished by the 
employment of a " carter," who is usually well posted on all the points 
of interest, and can often entertain his party with sundry legends in 
connection with them. The most delightful drive, for a single trip, 
is the 

RIDE AROUND MOUNT ROYAL, 

Which is about nine miles in extent, over splendid macadamized roads, 
through a section of country, in the suburbs, devoted to gardening, and 
under a high state of cultivation. The entire island, about thirty miles 
long by ten wide, is noted for its fertility, and is called the Garden of 
Canada. The trip should also inchide a drive to the summit of the 
mountain, whicli is reached Ijy a carriage road of easy ascent, and 
which is being converted into a magniticent park, from which an ex- 
tensive view of the city and sun-ounding country can be obtained. 
Tiie Mount Royal Cemetery, the Grey Nunnery, and the Hotel Dieu 
ai-e also to be seen in this drive, the latter being the largest build- 
ing in the Dominion, used for a convent, hospital, and asylum for poor 
eldldren. 

The Water Works, the reservoir of which is on the side of the 
mountain, with the pumping station on the banks of the St. Lawrence, 
above the city, are well worthy of a visit. The reservoir was exca- 
vated out of the solid rock, and is 206 feet above the level of the river. 
The cost of the works, with the machinery, was over •$2,000,000. The 
immense pressure obtained from such an elevated reservoir, enables the 
tire department to dispense entirely with engines, using hose carriages, 
and a large conflagration in the city is almost an impossibility. 

The public buildings of the city are substantial and elegant, many 
of them conspicuous for their superior architectural design, and the 
completeness of their appointments. The Court House, Post Office, 
Meix'hants' Exchange, several bank buildings, the Custom House, 
Mc Gill College, Bonsecours Market, and a list that might be indefi- 
nitely extended, comprise the notable structures that will attract at- 
tention as you ride through the business thoroughfai-es of the city. 

The churches are among the finest to be foimd in America. Notre 
Dame, with its twin towers, conspicuous from every point of view, is the 
most capacious of any of the finished structiu-es, although the Cathe- 
dral, now in process of erection, and modeled after St. Peter's at Rome, 



MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 61 

is to be second only to this famous editice in point of size and ele- 
gance. The towers are massive and lofty, being 220 feet in height. 
The right-hand tower may be ascended, and the view to be had well re- 
wards the etibrt of climbing. It contains the big bell, weighing nearly 
30,000 pounds. The other tower contains a chime of bells. The 
Church of the Gesu is noted for the beauty of its frescoes and paint- 
ings. The English Cathedral, and several Protestant churches, are also 
tine editices. 

Lachine Canal, leading from above the rapids of tliat name, is a 
tine specimen of engineering, and not only serves to facilitate naviga- 
tion, l)ut fiu-nishes almost unlimited water power for the extensive 
manufactiiring enterprises along its banks. 

Victoria Bridge, which crosses the river from the Southern shore, 
is a massive and costly structure. One of the best views of it is that 
to be had in coming down the river, the boat passing under the central 
span. It is tubular in shape, built of iron, and rests upon twenty-four 
piers of solid masonry, the central span being 330 feet, and the i-emain- 
ing ones 242 feet. It cost $6,300,000, is the property of the Grand 
Trunk Railway Company, and is used exclusively for railway purposes. 

The shipjiing interests of Montreal are among the most important 
sources of the city's prosperity. At the head of ocean navigation, it is 
the American terminus of a number of trans- Atlantic steamship lines, 
and the railway and river and lake connections from the West, com- 
bined with its facilities for ocean commerce, render it vel-y prominent 
as a port for transhipment. Its wharves are not excelled in America, 
being constructed of solid limestone ; and its harbor is deep and ca- 
pacious. 

The Champ de Mars, a spacious parade ground, where three thou- 
sand ti'oops may be reviewed at once ; Viger Square, near by, with gar- 
dens, conservatories, fountains, etc.; Victoria Square, Jacques Cartier 
Square, and several other smaller squares, constitute the parks of the 
city, in addition to the Mount Royal Park. Improve his time as he may, 
the visitor Avill not soon exhaust the attractions of this beautiful city, and 
will tind many more, which we have not space even to mention, as we 
regretfully leave the pleasant spot, and resume our journey, to the 

ANCIENT CITY OF QUEBEC. 

The route from Montreal may be chosen from three : The North 
Shore Railway, the Grand Trunk Railway, and the Richelieu & Onta- 
rio Steamship Line via the St. Lawrence. The latter is a favorite, 
and unless the tourist is surfeited with steamboat riding, will be the 
one generally chosen. It is a night trip, and therefore less wearisome 
than a ride by rail, as the comfortable state rooms of the boat are pref- 
erable to the berths of a sleeping-car. 

Leaving Montreal at early evening, passing the fort on the island 
dii-ectly against the city, and onward past the mouth of the Ottawa 
River below the city, the lirst stop is at the town of Sorel, or William 



62 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



Henry, at the confluence of Sorel or Richelieu River, forty-tive mih^s 
from Montreal. Five miles farther on, the river expands into a lake 
about twenty-tive miles in length by nine in width, and known as Lake 
St. Peter. Next we come to the ancient city of Three Rivers, taking- 
its name from the fact that the St. Maurice River, which here flows 
into the St. Lawrence, is divided by islands into three channels. 




CITV OV QUEBEC, FKOM THE KIVEK. 

The view of Quebec, as approached from the river, is singularly 
impressive. Unlike any other city on the American continent, its sit- 
uation and surroundings make it an object of striking interest. The 
fortifications, with their towers and battlements, frown upon you from 
the Plains of Abraham and" from the lower town, and there surrounds 
the place an aii- of mediaevalism at once novel and attractive. 

It is one of the oldest cities in America, as well as one of the most 
interesting. It was founded in 1608, and its history is replete with 
events of tremendous importance. The scene of many a battle and of 
untold carnage, the crowning event of all was the memorable engage- 
ment which transferred half a continent from France to Biitain, and 
immortalized the names of both commanders, the victor and the 
vanquished. 

The city consists of two divisions, known as the upper and the lower 
town. The upper town includes within its limits the Citadel of Cape 
Diamond, which covers the entire summit of the promontory, embi-acing 
an area of more than forty acres. It rises to the height of 345 feet 
above the river, and from its commanding position and the sti'ength of 
the fortification, has been not inaptly entitled the " Gibraltar of 
America." 




CITY AND H VRBOH 



QUEBEC, 



FROM THE 



CITADEL 



64 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



The shape of the city is triangular, the St. Lawrence and St. 
Charles rivers forming the two sides, with the Plains of Abraham for 
the base. The i-iver fronts are defended by a continuous wall on the 
very brow of the clifl', with flanking towers and bastions, loopholed for 
musketry and pierced for cannon. On the west side, a heavy triple 
wall, with trenches between, formerly guarded that approach, but 
much of it is now de- 
molished. Between ^ '— -- "^2"5 ^-; . ^ 

the old town and the 
outside world, the wall 
was formerly pierced 
with frowning gate- 
ways, five in number ; 
but these have been 
gradually demolished, 
in response to the increas- 
ing demand for more free 
communication, and on 
the occasion of tlie writer's las 
visit to the city, the old Saint 
.John's gate was being entirely 
removed. We present views of 
these gateways, from which the 
fortified aspect of the town be- 
fore their demolition may be 
readily inferred. 

The nationality of the inhabitants- 
is strongly French, and the visitor from 
the States can easily fancy himself in a 
city in France, so decidedly un-Ameri- 
can are all his surroundings. The 
quaint houses, the steep and tortuous 
streets, especially of the oldest portions 

of the 

city, and the almost universal use of 
the French language in the ordinary 
channels of trade, require no stretch 
of the imagination to practically trans- 
]>ort one to the old world, and give a 
glim[)se, as it were, of a foreign 
country. 

The view from the Citadel, on ac- 
count of its elevation, is surpassingly 
grand and comprehensive. The majes- 
tic St. Lawrence, alive with sailing 
craft of every size and kind, stretches 
before the vision in both directions, 





WOLFE'S OLD MONUMENT. 



QUEBEC AND VICINITY. 



65 



seeming like a band of glistening metal, beiiutifying the scene and 
giving animation to the picture. Directly below lie the crooked streets 
of the lower town, teeming with animation, while its busy population 
so far beneath, seem like pigmies, and you look 
upon the glistening roofs of the houses and down 
the very throats of the chimneys, into which it 
would seem an easy matter to toss a pebble. 

Looking to the westward, the Plains of Abra- 
ham are spread out before you, together with the 
blutis scaled by Wolfe and his brave soldiers in 
the preparation for the assault that ended in a 
victory, but cost the lives of both commanders. 
The spot where Wolfe fell is marked by a hand- 
some monument. It was erected in 1849, but is 
still called the '-new monument" in dis- 
tinction from the simple monolith which 
^ previously occupied its site, an illustration 

of which is given on the pi^eceding ]>age. 
tliH new monument bears the sim2)le but 
|uent inscription, " Here died Wolfe, 
\ictorious."' Directly across the river is 
the settlement of Point Levi, 
and down the stream the beau- 
tiful Isle of Orleans may be 
j^ ^A- seen. This pleasant resort 

may be reached by ferry from 
the city, and it affords delight- 
ful drives, giving views of the 
Falls of Montmorenci, the Laii- 
rentian Mountains, and other 
objects of interest. 

Chaiidiere Falls, nine miles 
above Quebec, on the river of 
the same name, are 130 feet 
high and 400 feet wide. The 
Falls and Indian village of 
Lorette, seven miles from Que- 
bec, are points to which ex- 
cursions may be profitably 
made, either by carriage or the North Shore Pailway. 

Other points of interest in and about Quebec demand at least a 
brief mention. The Dufferin Terrace, which will be included in the 
visit to the Plains of Al)raham, as will also the Governor's Garden, 
where the monument to Wolfe and Montcalm will l)e seen ; the Fi'cnch 
Cathedral ; the Laval Seminary, in the chapel of which are some very 
fine paintings ; the English Cathedral, near by ; the Ursuline Con- 
vent ; the public buildings in the lower town, and others which the 




WOLFE'S NEW MONCMEXT. 




PALACE llATi:, IjUEliEC. 




*T. LOUIS Ci.VTE, yiEBEf. 



FALLS OF JIONTMOKENCL 



67 



driver will point out to you, are of sufficient interest to enliven a visit 
of several days duration, or tliey may l)e hurriedly inspected in ii " liy- 
ine; trip." 

THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCI 

Are among the most interesting of the objects which secure the visits 
of tourists to Quebec, both on account of their own attractiveness and 
the pleasant drive by which they are reached. The "carters" of 
Quebec are as numerous as tho.se of Montreal, and the roads around 
the city and in the country adjacent are among the finest to be found 
anywhei'e. Securing your driver, you leave the city by one of the 
gates, and, crossing the St. Charles River, are soon in the suburbs, 
passing here and there a house or villa of modern style, but speedily 
coming to the realm of the ancient ; the road leading through quaint 
old hamlets, the cottages with their picturesque dormer Avindows, the 
thatched-roofed outbuildings, and the peasant-like appearance of the 
peoj^le, combined with the universal employment of the French lan- 
guage, strengthen the fancy for the time being that America must be 
far away, and that the rural districts of France or Switzerland are the 





ij^'-' 



Mn^^ 



s»» r 



FRENCH CANADIAN HOME. 



scenes .through which your trip is made. Children run beside the car- 
riage, asking alms or otlering tlowers, while the women and older girls 
are at work in tlie fields, oi' spinning with their rude wheels in the 
open doorways or on the porches of the little houses. The anticpxated 
impknnents of agi-iculture, the rude carts by the roadside, and the rustic 
crosses by the way, at which some devout pilgrim, perchance, is tarry- 




FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. 



FALLS OF MONTMUHENOl. 69 

ing to breathe a Fater Xoster, all tend to complete the illusion of a 
remoter age or more distant clime than the few hours' ride from bus- 
tling, modern, Yankee civilization. 

The ride of eight miles all too (juickly brings you to the River 
Montmorenci, and here you gaze upon historic ground, it being the 
scene of the battle of Montmorenci which immediately preceded Wolfe's 
tinal victory at Quebec. Leas'ing your cai-riage, aiid paying a small 
fee for the privilege of crossing private grounds, you descend the bank 
of the river to look up at the fall from below. The river here pours 
over the clitf into the St. Lawrence, broadening at the edge to about 
50 feet, and falling 250, in a sheeny vail, half water, half spray, not 
sublime, nor even grand, but exquisitely beautiful. 

The towers on either side of the river still mark the s])ot where, 
several years ago, a suspension bridge was erected, but which, through 
some defect, gave way as a laborer and his family were crossing in a 
cart, precipitating them into the gulf below. 

Returning to Quebec, the views of the city are enlivened by the 
peculiar featvire of glistening towers and roofs, so noticeable in connec- 
tion with many Canadian cities. The sunlight, glancing from the 
metal-covered roofs, spires, and dormer windows, which, owing to the 
tortuous windings of the streets, are set at every conceivable angle, })ro- 
duces a brilliant and sparkling effect. 

If you are ever tempted to indulge in sentiment, the words of the 
poet, used to describe the Celestial city, may come into mind : — 

"There is the city ia splendor subli iie; 
See how its towers and battlements shine." 

THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 

This is the largest atttuent of the St. Lawrence, which it joins about 
120 miles below Quebec. The scenery of the Saguenay is strikingly 
grand and romantic, and unlike anything else east of the Eocky Mount- 
ains. It is usually visited by boat, and the trip down the St. Law- 
rence to Tadousac, at the junction of the two streams, and up the Sag- 
uenay among its bold, wild scenery, should not be omitted, even at the 
expense of slighting some other point of interest lying in the highways 
of fashionable travel. 

Leaving Quebec by steamer, you pass through some remarkably fine 
scenery, in which the majestic St. Lawrence abounds, the river being 
in some places thirty miles in width, and dotted with a multitude of 
islands, abounding in game. The Falls of St. Anne are on the river of 
that name, which enters the St. Lawrence off the lower end of Orleans 
Island through a bold ravine. The quarantine station on Grosse Isle 
is passed, and is associated with sad memories of the famine in Ireland. 
It received twenty thousand plague-stricken emigrants, of whom six 
thousand now lie in a single grave, marked l)y a stone monument. 

Ninety miles below Queliec is the fashionable watering place known 



70 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

as Murray Bay. The river is here twenty miles wide, and the tides 
have a range of twenty feet in height. On the south sliore of the river, 
still further down, is Riviere du liOup, a place of some importance, and 
six miles below it is Cacouna, already quite famous as a pleasure resort, 
and yearly increasing in popularity. Across the river from Cacouna 
is Tadousac, at the mouth of the far-famed Saguenay, formerly a place 
of some commercial importance as a post of the Hudson Bay Company, 
and one of the first towns on the St. Lawrence fortified by the French. 
It has a good hotel, near which is a little church over 250 years old. 




TADOUSAC, AT MOUTH OF SAGUENAT KIVEH. 

The Saguenay River is remai'kable, not only for its great depth, 
but also for the marvelous height of its banks. It seems to flow 
through a rift in the Laurentian Mountains, which appear to be cleft, 
as it were, to the very foundations, the height of the clifls rising from 
the edge of the river being equaled only by the depth to which they 
descend below the surface. The source of the river is 130 miles from 
its junction with the St. Lawrence, in Lake St. John, which is fed by 
eleven rivers, draining an immense watershed, the great volume re- 
sultant pouring through this remarkable gorge, in many places unfath- 
omalile. At St. John's Bay, 27 miles above Tadousac, the water is 
one mile and a half in depth, and but little less at Eternity Bay, six 
miles beyond. At the hitter place, the wonderful capes. Trinity and 
Eternity, like giant sentinels guard the entrance, rising 1,500 and 1,'JOO 
feet, respectively, above the water. 

Ha-Ha Bay is sixty miles above Tadousac, and is nine miles long by 
six wide. It has also been named Grand Bay. The first-named title 
is said to have come from the exclamations of delight which sprung 
from the lips of the navigators of the river on its discovery ; and in 
contrast with the gloomy and forbidding aspect of the lower portions 



THE SACilKNAV KIVER. 



71 



oi" the liver, it would seem that sucli an oiit])urst might be perfectly 
natural. The mountains around Ha-Ha Bay abound in whortleberiies, 
or blueberries, as they are here called, and a very imjiortant industry 
with the natives is the gatlierinif and shijiment to market of the boun- 







HA-HA BAY, SAGUENAY KIVEK. 



tiful harvest thus kindly furnished by nature, the picking season ex- 
tending from the middle of July until the falling of the snow, and the 
supply being inexhaustible. 




\\\'E-< ETEItXITV AMI TIlINrrV. 



72 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



Chicoutimi, a few miles beyond, is at the head of navigation, the 
river being obstructed above this point by rapids and falls. Lumbering 
is one of its important industries, the immense forests of the vicinity be- 
ing as yet almost in their virgin state, and the harbor accessible to the 
largest vessels, thus giving it natural facilities of gi-eat value. 

The lishing in the Saguenay 
River and its tributaries is one 
of the chief attractions to the 
sportsman. Salmon abound, and 
the quality of the tish taken from 
such deep, cold water can readily 
lie inferred by the disciples of 
Walton. Game also abounds in 
the forests, some specimens being 
well worthy of the skill and 
nerve of the trained hunter. 

A stiident of character will 
find an interesting subject in the 
person of the Canadian Indian, 
to be met in various localities in 
Canada. Combining with his 
native craft the shrewdness of 
a Connecticut Yankee, he will 
often appear in the role of a 
vender of cuiiosities, in which 
"taking" attitude our artist pre- 
sents him. 

In closing our notes on the 
Saguenay, we feel that but faint 
justice can be done to its won- 
derful attractions. It has been 
tersely described by a writer as 
a "region of primeval grandeur, 
where art has done nothing and 
nature everything ; where, at a 
single bound, ci%ilization is left 
behind and nature stands in unadorned majesty ; where Alps on Alps 
arise ; whei-e, over unfathomable depths, through mountain gorges, 
the steamer ploughs the dark Hood on which no sign of animal life ap- 
pears. " A better slimming iip of its peculiar features, in so few words, 
could not lie written, and the tourist who visits the scenes we have 
briefly described will indulge in no regrets, unless it be that want of 
time to do justice to the trip gives only hurried glances where hours 
and days might be enjoyed in i-ealizing the siiblime grandeur of the 
surroundings. 




INDIAN CUKIOSITY SELLER. 



OGDENSBURG TO PORTLAND. 73 



Ooden^hHro to PcrfUnuL 




'HE route by the "all-rail" line from the 8t. Lawrence at 
Odgensburg to the ocean at Portland, presents many attrac- 
ts tions to the pleasure tourist, which we deem worthy of special 
mention in this connection. As an avenue of api)roacli to the 
Adirondacks, Chateaiigay Chasm, the Green Mountains of Ver- 
mont, and the White Mountains of TS^ew Hampshire, it offers a 
combination of desirable routes for summer travel. Indeed, the 
entire lino extends through a siiccession of lake, river, and moimtain 
sceneiy, of charming beauty and variety. 

The Adirondacks are best reached by way of Malone, a station 
on the Ogdensbui-g & Lake Champlain Railroad, about sixty miles 
from Ogdensburg. From here an excellent stage line takes the tourist 
to the Adirondack Wilderness, by way of Ayer's, Loon Lake, Meacham 
Lake, and St. Regis, the latter being the location of "Paul Smith's" 
famous hostelry. Chateaugay, a station twelve miles east of Malone, 
is another gateway to the famous resort, the stages going via the Cha- 
teaugay Lakes. 

The " Adirondack District " is a term applied to a tract of country 
having for its general boundaries the St. Lawrence River on the north, 
Lakes Champlain and George on the east, the Mohawk River on the 
south, and the Black River on the west. The encroachments of civili- 
zation have so trenched upon these boimdaries, that tlie "Wilderness," 
so called, comprises only the central, unsettled and \uicultivated por- 
tion of this tract, almost in its primeval state, with a border of settled 
country on all sides. The limits of this work forbid an extended de- 
scription of this region, which as yet is only partially explored. In- 
deed, one of its chief delights consists in the new discoveries that the 
venturesome tourist may make in his search for the game which 
abounds in its forests, or the tisli which teem in its waters. 

The following, from the report of the Superintendent of the Adi- 
rondack Survey, gives a good idea of the character of some portions of 
this wilderness : — 

" In these remote sections, filled with rugged mountains, where un- 
named waterfalls pour in snowy tresses from the dark, overhanging 
cliffs, the horse can find no footing, and the adventurous trapper or ex- 
plorer must carry upon his back his blankets and a heavy stock of 
food. His ritle, which affords protection against wild beasts, at times 
replenishes his well-hiisbanded provisions, and his axe aids him in con- 
structing from bai'k or bough, some temporary shelter from storm, or 
hews into logs the huge trees which form the fierce, roaring, comforta- 
ble fu-e of the camp. Yet, though the woodman may pass his life- 



74 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



time ill some section of tlie wilderness, it is still a mystery to iiim. 
* * It is a peculiar region ; for though the geographical center of 
the wilderness may be readily and easily reached in the light, canoe-like 
boats of the guides, by lakes and rivers, which form a labyrinth of pas- 
sages for boats, the core, or rather cores of this wilderness extend on 
either hand from these broad avenues of water, and, in theii- interior, 
spots remain to-day as untrodden by man, and as unknown and wild, 
as when the Indian paddled his birchen boat upon those streams and 




CASCADE AND BUTTRESS. 



lakes. Amid these mountain solitudes are places where, in all proba- 
bility, the foot of man never trod ; and here the panther has his den 
among tlie rocks, and rears his savage kittens undisturbed, save by the 
growl of bear or screech of lynx, or the hoarse croak of raven taking 
its share of the carcass of slain deer." 

A mile and a half north of Chateaugay is the wonderful Chateau- 
gay Chasm, a newly discovered rival of the far-famed Ausable. The 



0(JI)ENSBURG TO PORTLAND. 



75 



waters of tlie Chateaugay Lakes here find a passage on their way to 
the St. Lawi-ence, through a narrow gorge, walled in by sandstone 
cliffs, the river in one place making a descent of fifty feet in a beantifnl 
cascade. Several of the more noticeable features of this wonderful 
chasm are presented in our illustrations. The "Cascade and Buttress" 
exhibits an appearance of constructive design, as layer upon layer of 
sandstone rock forms a terraced buttress, resembling some ancient ruin. 
"Giant Gorge " is a narrow defile, with frowning walls, having the ro- 




I.IA.NT UUKUE — PULI'lT liL 



mantic and interesting feature of a cavern, called " Vulcan's Cave," 
with an entrance in the side of the rock, sixty feet above the river, and 
one hundred and twenty feet below the top of the clift'. It was first 
explored by means of spliced ladders, but is now i-eached by an en- 
closed stairway. It is al)out thirty feet square, and presents an inter- 



76 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



esting study for the geologist. The cave was doubtless hollowed out of 
the sandstone by the action of water which trickled down through the 
ledge above in tiny streams, wearing away the softer stone by slow de- 
grees, and leaving the masses of harder deposit in a variety of singular 
and grotesque shapes. A series of architectural pillars, supporting 




SPARTAN PASS — RAINBOW FALLS. 



gothic arches or miniature dormer windows, may be seen on the one 
hand, and at certain angles, odd and fantastic figures, some of them 
half human in appearance, present themselves, while here and there a 
block of stone appears like the unfinished work of the sculptor. 

" Spartan Pass " and " Hainbow Basin and Falls " are peculiarly 
interesting, the water descending to the basin over a succession of 
rocky steps, nearly a hundred in number, coming to a rest in the 
" basin," only to dash on again, in ever-changing foims and merry ca- 
dence, in their race through the gorge, to the St. Lawrence. " Pioneer 



OGDENSBURG TO POKTI.AND. 77 

Crossing" receives its name from tlie fact that in early times a bridge 
spanned the chasm, on what was then the great highway of the wikler- 
ness. On the nortli side of this crossing a huge rock affords an exten- 
sive view of the gorge, fi'om which fact it has been named Point Look- 
out. In other parts of the Chasm, grottoes, arches, cohimns, etc., 
afford subjects of study for the curious, and of admiration for the 




PIONEER CROSSING — POINT LOOKOUT. 



lovers of the odd and fantastic in nature. A fine hotel has been 
erected near the entrance to the chasm, from the cupola of which 
splendid views may be had of the scenery. Coaches connect with 
trains at Chateaugay. 

At Eouse's Point, the terminus of the O. & L. C. R. P., connection 
is made with ihe Delaware & Hudson Canal Co. Railroad for Lake 
George, Saratoga, Troy, Albany, and New York, and with the Central 



78 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

Vermont for St. Albans, Worcester, Providence and Boston. Contin- 
uing our journey toward Portland, we here traverse a small portion of 
the Central Vermont Railroad to Swanton, where connection is made 
with the 

. ST. JOHNSBURY & LAKE CHAMPLAIN RAILROAD, 

The next link in the line under consideration. The route from Rouse's 
Point, via Lake Champlain, is exceedingly pleasant, the scenery being 
that of the lovely lake, and the Green Mountains of Vermont. Shel- 
don Springs are on the line of this road, and it is also a direct roiifce 
to Mount Mansfield. Both these localities have acquii-ed no little 
celebrity as summer resoits. 

At Morrisville, connection is made for Mount Mansfield by stage 
line, and such as wish to visit the locality will find an excellent stop- 
ping place at Mt. Mansfield House. The mountain is in the town of 
Stowe, about twenty miles northeast of Montpelier, and its height is 
4,359 feet above the level of the sea. 

The Green Mountains of Vermont are a portion of the great Appa- 
lachian range, extending almost continuously from near the St. Law- 
rence River, in Canada, through the entire length of Vermont, across 
the western part of Massachusetts and the middle Atlantic States, to 
the northern part of Alabama. The White Mountains of New Hamp- 
shii'e, and the Adirondacks and Catskills of New York are regarded as 
outlying spurs of this chain. This range is remarkable for the uni- 
formity of outline which characterizes the diiferent peaks, particularly 
of their summits, the ridges extending in the same general direction, 
sometimes hardly diverging from a straight line for a distance of fifty 
or sixty miles. Where the mountain chains are parallel, the ridges are 
also in i)arallel lines, preserving their general direction, and, to a won- 
derful extent, a uniformity of distance between them. When one 
curves round in a new direction, all curve with it. 

These general peculiarities ai"e less marked in the mountains of Ver- 
mont than in the more southerly portions of the same chain. In fact, 
the peculiar characteristics of the range, as a whole, are less marked at 
both its northern and southern extremities, the termination at either 
end not being well defined, as the mountains sink away and ai'e lost in 
the liilly country that succeeds to them. 

The Green Mountain peaks are also less bold and abru])t than those 
of the White Mountains, being covered mostly with verdure to theii* 
very summits, and presenting less of sharji or nigged outline in their 
general conformation. To many visitors, this feature is pleasing and 
agreeable, and a large class of summer tourists spend a portion or all 
of the season in the vicinity of the "beautiful hills " of the " Green 
Mountain State." 

At St. Johnsbury the line intersects the Passumpsic Railroad, and 
a description of the- route from this point will be given in the following 
chapter, in connection with the trip from Quebec and Montreal. 




jME .MoUlQTi^IT) 










HE route from the West to the 
seaboard via Montreal and Que- 
bec, as arranged over recently com- 
pleted lines of travel, naturally 
extends through the charming re- 
gion of the celebrated White Hills 
of New Hampshire. From Mont- 
real, or any point beyond, this 
popular resort is easy 'of access by 
several routes, all of them ])ossess- 
ing some special attraction to in- 
vite the tourist to give them a trial. 
From Quebec, the tourist may re- 
turn to Montreal, by boat or rail, 
"'*■'' or may proceed directly to the 

mountains by the Quebec Central Railway to Sherbrooke, thence via 
the Passumpsic Railroad to St. Johnsbury, Bethlehem and Fabyans, in 
the veiy heart of the White Mountain region. 

If the trip be made byway of Montreal, the mountains may be reached 
via the Grand Trunk, the Southeastern, or the Central Vermont. 
The route by the Grand Trunk, is by way of Gorham, and the eastern 
side of the mountains. By the Southeastern, the line is to Newport 
and St. Johnsbury. The Central Vermont line offers two routes ; one 
to Montpelier, there connecting with the Montpelier &. Wells River 
Radroad, or by way of Swanton, thence by the Portland and Ogdens- 
burg line to St. Johnsbury, which thus seems to be made the focus of all 
the various lines having the same general direction, and leading to the 
mountain region. 

At Newport, reached by the Southeastern from Montreal, or the 
Quebec Central from Quebec, the celebrated Lake Memphremagog is 
the chief attraction, and the dining station is at the splendid hotel bear- 
ing the same name as the lake. It is a popular summer resort, and 
the steamer on the lake makes frequent trips for thet accommodation of 
tourists. Several mountains, comprising Jay Peak, Owl's Head, Mount 



THE WHITE .AJOUNTAINS. 81 

Oxford, Mount Ele])]iantis and the Willouglil)y Mountains are amou"- 
the atti-aetions of the ticinity. 

St. Johnsbury is situated on the Passumpsic Rivei', at the intersec- 
tion of the Passumpsic and St. Johnsl)ury it Lake t'hanijjLiin Piail- 
roads ; and in acklition to the attractiveness of its location from a scenic 
point of view, it has attained much prominence as a manufactui-inif 
town, the heaviest enterprise in that direction being the production oi 
the celebrated Fairl)anks scales, known the world over for their excel- 
lence and correctness. The St. Johnsbury House and Avenue Hotel 
are good places of entertainment. 

Eastward from St. Johnsbury the route lies over the St. Johnsbury 
A Lake Ghamplain Eailroad to Lunenburg, the western terminus of the 
Portland division of the P. & O. line. From this point, a ride of an 
hour brings us into the very midst of the glorious White Hills, iuid in 
full view of the grand 

PRESIDENTIAL RANGE, 

Stretching before the vision in a glorious and lieautiful panorama, with 
the peerless Washington above them all. This approach to the mount- 
ains atiords the most comprehensive view of the ]:)iincipjal range ; and 
the Westerner, who has always been accustomed to broad expanses of 
prairie, with no greater elevations, perhaps, than the height of an ordi- 
nary church stee})le, will be peculiarly imjjressed with the grandeur of 
the scene before him. 

The first important station is Bethlehem Junction, three miles 
from Bethlehem village, the "paradise of hay-fever sufferers." This 
lovely hamlet enjoys the distinction of having the highest location of 
any town in the United States east of the Rockies and north of the 
Carolinas ; and the remarkable purity of its atmosphere not only secures 
exemption from the peculiar malady which drives so many to its pu-o- 
tection, Ijut heightens the effect of the views to be had of the surround- 
ing country. Owing to its commanding position, and the i-emark:i)ile 
clearness of the atmosphere, the view of the moimtains fiom " Beth- 
lehem Street " is confessedly the best to be had anywhere. 

The village is rendered accessible to the traveler by means of a re- 
cently constructed narrow-gauge railroad, from Bethlehem Junction to 
the end of the " street." Al)Out midway on the line of this road is the 
magnificent hotel known as Maplewood, kept in superb style, and at 
its terminus is the well-known Sinclair Hoisk, Durgin ct Fox pro- 
])rietoi's. In addition to these palace hotels, a host of smaller ones, and 
a long list of V)oarding-houses. furnish abiding places for the midtitudes 
who "tarry for a night," or make this place their sunmier home. 

Bethlehem is also the railroad connection for the famous Franconia 
Notch, by means of a narrow-gauge railroad, extending into the val- 
ley and terminating near the Profile House. The attractions of this 
locality are sufficiently important to demand special notice by them- 
selves ; and we therefore keep straight on in our course, the next stop 



82 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



being at tlie Twin Mountain House, so named from its proximity to 
the " Twin Mountains," one of which is visible from the hoteL This 




house has for many years been the summer home of Henry Ward 
Beecher, who addresses large congregations of Sunday excursionists 
during the season. 

Four miles further, and we stop at the White Mountain House, 
one of the oklest of the mountain hotels, a veritable " tavern " of the 
earlier days, with less of style than its more pretentious neighbors, but 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 83 

with a large stock of good cheer and hospitable care for its guests, at 
moderate prices. Only a mile from the Fabyan House, the would-be 
guests of the latter are sometimes compelled, from an over-taxation of 
its immense capacities, to fall back on the resources of mine host 
Rounsevel, who gives them the best his house aftbrds, and bids them 
''be therewith content." 

;the fabyan house, 

Six miles from the base of Mount Washington, is one of the most com- 
plete establishments of its kind in all the mountain region, having ac- 
commodations for five hundred guests. It is situated on a beautiful 
intervale, at an elevation of more than fifteen hundred feet above sea 
level, and its piazzas afford a fine view of the White Mountain range. 
It is also a central point from which excursions are made to the vari- 
ous resorts within easy reach by rail or carriage. The traveler may 
find, in this vicinity, an opportunity to enjoy a relic of the " good old 
days " of stage-coaching, which the railway has not succeeded in en- 
tii'ely abolishing, although it has largely superseded the conveyance 
once so popular in the mountain region. 

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

From the Fabyan House, the railroad has been extended to the 
base of Mount Washington, there connecting with the wonderful ele- 
vated railway to the summit, thus forming a continuous all-rail line to 
the realm above the clouds. The six miles of road to the base of the 
mountain compasses some of the steepest grades known to railroad en- 
gineering. A powerful engine, of the six-drive-wheel construction, is 
required to propel a very moderate load of passengers, and as it la- 
boriously puffs along the grades, the forests echo and re-echo with the 
sound, while the traveler feels thankful that the iron horse, instead of 
flesh and blood, is being employed in his service. 

Mt. Pleasant Hotel is passed a short distance from Fabyan's, and a 
short distance from here are the Wild Ammonoosuc Falls, a natural 
curiosity well worthy of a visit. The river descends "about fifty feet, 
in a broken, u-regular way, and in some places has worn curious chan- 
nels in the rocks, resembling a cauldron, in which the water seethes 
and boils in its downward course, and issues laughing, singing and 
leaping in its wild and merry race for the intervales below." 

The Mount Washington Railway is one of the wonders of mod- 
ern engineering skill. It was chartered by the Legislature of New 
Hampshire, in 1858, the passage of the bill being regarded as the huge 
joke of the session, one member offering to amend it by "extending it 
to the moon," either terminal being regarded as equally liable to be- 
come a f^ict. In spite of obstacles, however, its construction was suc- 
cessfully accomplished, by the combined ingenuity of the projector and 
inventor, Sylvester Marsh, the mechanical skill of Walter Aiken, who 
Ijuilt the engine and cars, and the financial aid and " push " of friendly 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



85 



mclividuals ami interested railway companies. It was completed in 
1869, and has carried thousands up and down tlie mountain without 
the slightest injiiry to any, so complete is the system of safety appli- 
ances in use, each independent of the other, and any one sufficient in 
itself to insure complete safety. The writer was once an eye-witness to 
the severest test to which it has ever yet been siibjected, caused l)y the 
breakage of one of the gear driving wheels of the locomotive. The re- 
sultant disarrangement of the machinery set in o}ieration the automatic 
safeguards, prodiicing the eti'ect of instantly holding the train to the 
track as firmly as though it had been bolted to the solid rock. Indeed, 
it was with no little difficulty that it was liberated, and enabled to 
pioceed. 

The accompanying illusti-ation gives a good idea of the o))eration of 

the road. In 
addition to the 
ordinary rails 
I >f t lie common 
L^ railroad, there 
„ - ^ i^ i*^ '^ toothed 

: -• " ""-=-- _^ rail midway 
between, in 
; ^_--- which there 

,L „.^.,^v' "'meshes" the 

■^ geai-ed wheel 

attached to the axle of the loco- 
motive, which thus steadily 
dimhs up the mountain by the revo- 
lution of the machineiy. All the 
axles, both of the engine and passenger 
coach, are provided with geared wheels, 
by means of which the train could be 
instiintly anchored to the track, as in 
tlie case above cited. Each car has 
its own locomotive, and will carry 
about tifty passengers. The seats ure inclined backward, so as to be 
in a good position on ascending the mountain. The car is always 
above the engine, both in the ascent and descent. The latter is accom- 
plished by gravitation alone, the bi-akes being kept in requisition to 
hold the train in check. 

The ride np the mountain constitutes an experience never to be for- 
gotten. Leaving Ammonoosuc Station, as the starting point at the 
base is called, the train immediately surmoixnts a considerable eleva- 
tion l)efore emerging fi-om the forest, which is soon left behind as we 
rise above the " tree-line," and reach the region of stinited shrubs, 
which in turn give place to moss and lichens, and finally to rocks, bare 
of vegetation, and as cheerless as it is ])0ssible to imagine. Above the 
trees, the prospect broadens, as the landscape spreads out in a grand 




MT ^\ V^HI^GTO^ K4.IL^\ W 



86 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

panorama, almost illimitable, and of wonderful grandeur and beauty. 
Several stops are made for water, wliicli is taken from large tanks fed 
by mountain springs, far above, and conducted down in pipes. These 
stopping places have been appro]iriately named, according to their lo- 
cation, such as Waumbek Station, Gulf Station, etc., the latter being 
near the yawning chasm in the mountain-side, named the Gl'LF of 
Mexico. Banks of snoAv may frequently be seen in its recesses, even 
in midsummer, and a game of snowballing is not an uncommon August 
recreation. 



^^: 







-K.K 



"gulf of MEXICO," MT. WASHINGTON. 

Jacob's Ladder is a long section of trestle work, with a consider- 
able elevation and steep inclination, after passing which the grade di- 
minishes somewhat, as the road winds around the crown of the 
mountain. 

Near the summit is a pile of rocks surmounted by a tablet, known 
as the "Lizzie Bourne Monument," marking the spot where the young 
lady perished from exposure, in September, 1855 ; having undertaken 
the ascent of the mountain in company with two male relatives, with- 
out a guide, and becoming chilled and bewildered, she lost her way, and 
<ies{)airingly sank down to die almost in sight of the summit. 

bearing the summit, the view changes, as the scenery of the east- 
ern side comes in view. The highhmds of Maine are now the back- 
ground of the ])icture, with intervening valleys, lakes and rivers, while 
far below, the white buildings of the Glen House dot the landscape as 
a mere speck in the lovely valley in which they nestle. 

The trip from base to summit occu})ies about an hour and a quarter, 
the distance being three miles, with an average grade of 1,300 feet to 
the mile, the most abrujjt ascent being in the proportion of one foot in 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



87 



three. An ajiproximate idea of this grade may be had by placing a 
yard-stick upon a level surface, as a table, and raising one end of it a 
foot, with the other end upon the table. Then imagine a train of cars 
climV)ing siich an ascent, and you have a fair conception of the grade ; but 
the most vivid imagination would fail to take in the sensations actually 
experienced in the journey. 




LIZZIE BOUKNE MONUMENT. 



THE MOUNT WASHINGTON SUMMIT HOUSE. 

The provisions for the entertainment of guests at the summit were 
formerly very limited, a few rude stone structures furnishing shelter for 
such as dared brave the hardships of a night in the clouds. But now 
all is changed. The capacious and comfortable building which serves 
the double purpose of depot and hotel, not only provides comfortable 
shelter, but a tirst-class table and excellent fiire for about one hundred 
and fifty guests. The house was opened to the public in 1873, and has 
been in successful operation since, sometimes being taxed to its utmost 
capacity. 

The view from the summit is indescribably grand. At an altitude 
of 6,193 feet, or more than a mile and one-fifth above sea-level, the line 
of vision bounds a circle neaidy a thousand miles in circumference ; and 
within that circle are lakes, rivers, mountains, valleys, dark forests, smil- 
ing villages, and in fact a variety of scenery, ever changing as the gaze is 



THE WHITE .MOUNTAINS. 



89 



directed to the. different points of the compass. In a clear day, the dis- 
tant glimmer of the Athmtic may be seen, away to the southeast. A 
little more to the south a brighter gleam i-eveals the location of Lake 
Winnipesaukee, while the Saco valley and Chocorua Mountain are in the 
nearer foreground. Turning still to the right, you see other moiuit- 
ains of the j-ange on whose highes^^t summit you are standing, JVIount 
Monroe, the Twin Ponds, Mount Pleasant, Mount Franklin, Mount 
Willey, the scene of the famous "slide," and lesser elevations beyond. 




MOUNTS ADAMS AND MADISOX. 



Westward, away in the dim distance, the horizon is broken by the 
Green Moimtains of Vermont, with an occasional view of the remote 
Adirondacks in New York ; while nearer, you see the valley of the Am- 
monoosuc, the Fabyan House, Bethlehem, Mount Lafayette, and the ex- 
panse of forest which tills the picture. To the northwest, the villages of 
Littleton, Jefferson and Lancaster appear, while in the distance, to the 
north, the table lands of Canada unite with the sky in bounding the ho- 
rizon. To the northeast, the eye reaches to the unbroken forests of 
Maine. Mount Katahdin throws its dim outline against the sky, while in 
the foreground Mounts Jefferson, Adams and Madison tower grandly up 
before you as a grim body-guard to Washington. Nestled in the glen. 






AMIin M(H M Vl\^ 1 lioM .lEFFERSON. 



-^ ^^ 





-\ 




M 



CLIMBING MOUNT JEFFERSON. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



91 



the white hotel buildings of the Glen Hoiise establishment are visible ; 
while near at hand, towai'd the southeast. Mount Jackson appears, and 
in the distance, the Pequaket or Kiarsarge may be seen, together with 
Sebago Lake in Maine. 

SUNRISE ON MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

The grand, culminating view from this lofty point of observation is 
to be had at the rising of the sun. For this incomparable prospect you 
must spend a night among the clouds, .and perchance more than one 




DISTANT VIEW OF MOLXT WASHINGTON. 



night, as nature is fickle at that altitude as well as in the valleys below, 
and not nnfrequently " old Sol " has half a forenoon's work before him 
to dispel "the mists of the piorning " before his face is visible to the 
watchers on the summit. Should you be fiivored. however, with both 
a clear sunrise and sunset in one day, as was the writer on the occasion 
of his first visit, you will cherish in tlie chambers of memory the most 
enchanting pictures of a lifetime. Sunset at sea has awakened the lyre 
of many a poet, and inspired the pencil of many a painter ; but neither 
pen nor pencil can give an adequate picture of the beauties of a sunrise 
as viewed from the summit of Mount Washington. 

At early dawn the inmates of the house are roused, and such as 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



93 



clioose arise and dress, and take tlieir position on thi; platt'orni east of 
the building, to watcli for the first apj^earance of the "golden orb of 
day." Beneath you the valleys are still in slumber, and a deep gloom is 
spread over all, in sharp contrast with the light of dawn which already 
illumines the mountain peaks around you. Banks of mist here and there 
indicate th^ location of bodies of water, and possibly overhanging clouds 
may partially hide soms of the mountain summits from view. 

All eyes are turned expectantly towards the east, which is beginning 
to show a flint rosy tinge, deepening every moment till it reaches a 
crimson or jjerhaps a golden hue, a fitting couch from which the l)rill- 
iant day king is about to spring forth to enter upon his glorious reign. 



ZM 




TIP-TOP HOUSE IX WINTER. 



Suddenly one point in the eastern horizon grows moi-e intensely bx-ight 
than all the rest, and the disc of the sim is then discernible, quickly in- 
creasing in proportions until the broad face of the great luminary so 
dazzles the eye as to compel a withdrawal of the gaze. 

Looking then into the valleys below, the effect is transcendently 
beautiful. While the spectator is bathed in the full golden sunshine, 
the somber shadows are just beginning to flit away, presenting in the 
strongest possible manner the contrasts of light and shatle ; and not 
until some minutes have elapsed, does the new l)orn-day reach down into 
the deepest valleys to drive forth the lingering remnants of night. 



94 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



The view of the mountain peaks around, as, one after another, ac- 
corcUng to their height, they are toiiched by the rays of the rising sun, 
is very beautiful; and even the dullest mind can scarcely resist the en- 
thusiastic inspiration awakened by the scene. And then, as the sun 
mounts steadily upward, giving heat as well as light with his cheering 
rays, the mists below are slowly dispelled, and nature puts on her most 
bewitching countenance, with her gloomy frowns banished, supplanted 
by the sweetest smiles. 

Such is but a faint description of a sunrise witnessed by the writer. 
The picture will vary with the changing circumstances, and that which 
it may be the reader's fortune to behold, though entirely unlike it, may 
be none the less beautiful and enchanting. 




MOUNT GARFIELD. 



Tlie old Tip-Top and Summit Houses still stand, together with the 
buildings of the U. S. Signal Service, the ticket-office and station of the 
Glen House stage line, with its stables, and the engine house of the 
railway. The oflace of Among the Clouds, a daily paper, occupies the 
old Tip-Top House ; and in the Signal Service building a band of reso- 
lute men brave the rigors of winter in the interests of science, recording 
the temperature, the velocity of the wind, etc. With the thermometer 
at hfty degrees below zero, and the wind blowing with a velocity of one 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



95 



hundred and titty miles an hour, it must requii-e nerves of steel and a 
hardy constitution to survive the ordeal. 

The old bridle path from the Crawford House to the summit is still 
employed by those who wish to make the ascent, as in the " good old 
days," but the favorite method, next to the railroad trip, is by the 

GLEN HOUSE STAGE LINE. 

The road is eight miles in length, and by skillfiil engineering has been 
so built as to rise, on an average, only about one foot in eight, the 
steepest place being one foot in six, and that for a short distance only, 
rendering the ascent easy and comfortable. Passengers by way of 





MOUNT WASHINGTON CAKRIAGE BOAD. 



Gorham, on the Grand Trunk, reach the siimmit by this method, and 
then have the privilege of descending by rail on the other side. 

Tuckerman's Ravine, an immense seam in the side of Mount Wash- 
ington, may be explored from the summit, or by following up the stream 
which takes its rise in this gorge. The chasm is filled to a great dejrth 
by the snows of winter, which, in the process of melting, form beautiful 
arches, sometimes visible till late in the summer. 

Keturning to the base, we are again at the Fabyan House, from 
which point we may make excursions in various directions, the excellent 
livery in connection furnishing carriages and trusty drivers, who will 
act as guides, and give interesting information to those in theu' charge. 

Before proceeding in our onward joui-ney toward the sea, let us re- 
trace our steps for a visit to the famous Franconia Valley. 



FRANCONIA NOTCH. 



97 



Fnmconia Kotch , 



From Bethlehem station, as })reviously mentioned, the Profile & 
Franconia Notch Railroad extends to this resort, which is one of the 
most popuhir in the White Mountain region. Its crowning attraction 
is the celebrated Profile, so widely known as "The Old Man of the 
Mountain." This colossal copy of the luiman face is to be seen on the 




OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN. — DISTANT VIEW. 

southern side of Profile Mountain, with l)old and high forehead, 
sti'fught nose, slightly parted mouth, and jn'oniinent chin. From fore- 
head to chin, the face measures some eighty feet, and the elevation is 
some fifteen hundred feet above Profile Lake, which, fiom its location, 
is sometimes called " The Old Man's Mirror," and -'The Old Man's 
Washbowl." 

Profile House, an elegant and roomy hotel, with accommodations 
for five hundred guests, is not the least attractive feature of the neigh- 
boi'liood, its great popularity often filling it to overflowing, even be- 
fore the railroad made it so easy of access. Messrs. Taft & Greenleaf, 
the })i-0}>rietors, are among the most successful hotel managers in all 
the region. 

Mount Lafayette, the highest peak of the Franconian range, has 
an altitiide of 5,259 feet, and the view from the summit is regarded as 
second only to that from Blount Washington. The ascent is made by 



98 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



')■■ 



^•'?i??:-v,. 



'\ 



%. 



^If\ 






\ 



bridle path from tlie Profile House, where horses, guides, etc., are to 
be foimd at the service of the tourist. A building at the summit af- 
fords shelter from inclement weather, or the severe winds which some- 
times prevail at such an elevation. 

Eagle Cliff, a huge crag, with precipitous front, towers up to the 
height of fifteen hundred feet, directly in front of the hotel. A paii" of 
eagles made it their home for some years, until 
driven away by the curiosity of explorers. A 
fine ^•iew of the Cliff is to be had from Echo 
Lake, which nestles at its base, and is one of 
the most charming little bodies of water to be 
found. The blast of a horn, or the repoi't of a 
small cannon, fired at intervals to " wake the 
echoes," reverberates against the sides of the 
(Jliff and the rocky walls which environ the 
lake, with a succession of sharp and dis- 
tinct lepctitions, gi owing fainter and 
funteij.md hn ill\ dvin<i away among 
the fai ofi cliffs ^\lth .in ctitct as beau- 
tiful as it IS suipiising 

The Piohle House stands at the gate- 
\\<i> of the Notch the appi'oach being 
fiom the north. 
On either side 
of the gorge, 
the Franconia 
1 mge extends 
in a southerly 
direction, La- 
f lyette, Lin- 
I. oln and Lib- 
( 1 1 y on the 
t 1st, Profile. 
Kinsman and 
Pemigewasset 
M)n the west, 
w ith several 
lesser peaks 
and spurs, the 
valley gi'actu- 
ally descend- 
ing to the 
south, and 

widening in the descent, until it expands into the Yalley of the Pem- 
igewasset. 

Three miles from the Profile House, a path diverges from the road 
near a small brook, and a walk of half a mile brings to view a succes- 




EAGLE CLIFF. 



FRANCONIA NOTCH. 



99 



sion of picturesque waterfalls, which have received the name of 
mLKER's Falls. A half mile further south is the Basin, a curious 




XEAK VIEW OF TUE I'liUElLE. 



,-ranite reservoir, about forty feet across, and ^^ f T^^^^^^^^ 
ui which the waters make a gyratory turn, a er l^;;f ^^^^l^^^^ 
Five miles from the Profile House, near the lowei gateway 



I «i 1 1 




FRANCOXIA JKJINIAINS, IKciM I'l _:M 1. 1; W ASSET VALLEY. 




MOUNT LAFAYETTE 



I 



FRANCONIA NOTCH. 



101 



ISTotcli, is the Fi.ume House, so named from its proximity to the rocky 
raviiie, between whose walls the Great Boulder is suspended, as thoiiyh 
ready to fall at the slightest provocation. As these j^ages are beim»' 
printed, the telegraph brings the news that the ravine has been choked 
by an avalanche, and the fall of the boulder is reported. When the 
book is in the hands of its readers, the correctness of the repoi-t will 
have been determined, but at this writing it cannot be verified. 

The Pool, the C'ascades, Georgianna Falls, Mount Pemigewasset, and 




FLUME AND BOULDEK. 



other objects of interest, are to be visited from tlie Fi;ime House. A 
stage i-oute extends from the Profile House to Plymouth, via the 
Pemigewasset, and before the completion of the railroad from Bethle- 
hem, was the principal method of conveyance to this locality. 

It is still a favorite with many ti'avelers, being, as above indicated, 
a direct route to Plymouth, a favorite resort on the Boston, Concord, 
ct Montreal Railroad. Those wishing to reach Boston by this route 
may connect by stage with the trains at Plymoiith, or, returning to 
Bethlehem, may take the trains of this road, which run via Wing 
Boad, Littleton, Warren, Wells River, Plymouth and Lake Winnipe- 
saukee, to Concoz'd, thence by Concord, Lowell k Boston Railroad, to 
the metropolis of New England. This is a })opular route between 
Boston and the mountains, and is very largely patronized in the 
summer. 



LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE. 



103 



Near Warren, on this line, is Moosilauke, a mountain peak of some 
celebrity, which from its comparatively isolated position, atJbrtls a very 
fine view from its summit. The town boasts of fff^j .miles of trout 
streams, and several excellent hotels provide good accommodations for 
such as desire to "drop the line," or s]i('nd a season in recreation. 




O^VL"!^ HEAD AND 3I00SILAUKE MOUNTAIN. 

The Pemigewasset House, at Plymouth, is the dining station of 
the B. C. ife M. R. P., and has an almost national reputation for the 
excellence of its cuisine. Jt is also a favorite summer resort hotel. 

The beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee is reached at Weirs Station 
and Steamboat lianding. This sheet of water, irregular in its boundaries, 
studded with hundreds of islands, and bordered by some of the finest 
scenery in the world, has obtained almost a world-wide fame, being 
visited by thousands of tourists every season. Weii-s Station is on the 
western shore ; and within a few years has becoine celebrated as the loca- 
tion of a permanent camp-ground, occupied in tarns by the Methodists, 



104 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



tilt' Unitaiians, and the Grand Ai'my of the Repul)]ic. Several hotels 
and summer boarding houses have been built to accommodate the in- 
ci'easing demands of tourists who wisli to tarry by the margin of the 
lake, and enjoy its lovely scenery, and bathe and fish in its waters, or 
ride over its surface among its myriad islands. Center Harbor, on 
its north shore, Wolfboro on the east, and Alton Bay on the south, are 
all well-known summer resorts, and the ride between these points by 
steamer constitutes a delightful trip. Two boats of considerable size, 
the " Lady of the Lake, " owned hj the Boston, Concord & Montreal 
Railroad, and the " Moimt Washington, " the property of the Boston 




PEMlGK\VA:^Sh,T HOUSE, PLyMOUTH, K. U. 

tfe Maine Eailroad, together with several smaller craft, constitute tht^ 
ilotilla ; and their fi-equent trips among the islands and between the 
principal ports just mentioned atibrd opportunity to enjoy the attrac- 
tions of Winnipesaukee, and to i-ealize the signitlcance of its Indian ti- 
tle, which is translated "Smile of the Great Spirit. " 

The " Weirs " takes its name from having formerly been the location 
of the fish-weirs of the aborigines, whence an unlimited supply of food 
was drawn, in the days before the shriek of the locomotive, or even the 
crack of the stage-driver's whip, lu'oke the stillness of the adjacent 
forests. 

From Weirs Station the route to Boston is via Concord, Man- 
chester, Nashua, and I-owell. 



106 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



White Moimtam Koteh, 

The route from Fabyan House to Portland extends through this fa- 
mous pass, over the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad ; and the ride 
is one of the most delightful trips by rail to be afforded east of the 
Pocky Mountains, and with the exception of the ascent to the summit 
of Mount Washington, is the grandest and most imjjressive. The rail- 
way itself is a wonder, overcoming, in its construction, obstacles that 
might appall the stoutest-hearted engineer. Rimning here upon a lofty 
trestle, clinging now to the side of a mountain, winding around the base 
of some overhanging clitl', again bridging some mountain stream far 
above its bed, it thi-eads its devious way through the pass, abolishing 
the fatigue and hardship incident to mountain visiting, and affording a 
panoramic view of scenery unsurpassed for variety, novelty and 
grandeur. 

The trip through the Notch is made in Observation Cars, which are 
attached to all trains. These are open at the sides, and provided with 
revolving arm chairs, thus affording an outlook in all directions, adding 
materially to the pleasure of the joiirney. The first five miles accom- 
plished, and we are at 

THE CRAWFORD HOUSE, 

Almost in the very gates of the Notch, near its upper entrance. Either 
in going or returning, this will be found a desii-able stopping place, as 
there are many points of interest in this vicinity. The hotel itself is 
spacious and elegant, accommodating 500 guests. In the days of moun- 
tain-climbing by " brute force, " it was the starting point of the bridle 
path to the summit of Mount Washington ; but the hardy mountain 
ponies, trusty and sure-footed, have given way to the " iron horse," no 
less trusty, but vastly less romantic. 

Saco Lake, near the house, is the source of Saco River, here a dimin- 
utive stream, but increasing in volume on its way to the sea, as it ab- 
soi'bs the brooklets and rivulets, until it is utilized in tiu-ning the busy 
wheels of industrious machinery in many a factory before it is lost in 
the Atlantic. 

Gibes' Falls, also near the hotel, are forty feet in height, divided by 
a rocky cliff into two parts. They were named in honor of a former 
landlord of the house. 

Beecher's Cascade, a half mile distant, may have had some other 
name, but it is now lost in the distinction given it by a baptism expe- 
rienced by the eminent divine, not according to the method of Plymouth 
Church, but more after the Roger Williams standard, and wholly 
involuntary. 

Mount Willard, sometimes called Moimt Tom, or Tom Willard, al- 
though not of great altitude, furnishes an excellent point of observation 
from its summit, which is reached by a comfortable carriage ride. The 



108 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



view is highly praised l:)y good judges, Anthony Ti-ollope declaring it 
uneiju lied in all the cl.issic Ehineland. Standing at the very gate of 
the Notch, it commands an excellent view of the chasm, and the differ- 
ent mountains whii^h encompass it, together with a splendid jirospect 
to the west and north. 




HERMIT S POOL, FKANCOXIA NOTCH. 



Silver Cascade and the Flume Cascade are two of the attractions of 
the locality, which leap down the sides of Moimt Webster in glorious 
disorder, now spreading out over a rocky bed in a thin sheet of silver, 
gathering again in some pool for a plunge over a precipice, breaking 
into spray in the descent, then running swiftly in a narrow channel as 
if gathering momentum for another grand leap, and so laughing, sing- 
ing and dancing on its way, to join the Saco in its noisy pilgrimage to 
the sea. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. 109 

The Willey House, memorable as the scene of the disaster known 
in history as the " Willey Slide, " is located under the steep acclivity of 
Mount Willey, Avhich rises some 2,()0() feet aljove the house. Opposite 
are the frowning clilis of Mount Welister, with the Saco Kiver flowing 
near. The story of the fearful calamit}^ is familiar, Imt its I'epetition. 
may be of interest to our readers. On the night of August 2i<, 182tJ, a 
terrible storm occiirred, swelling the brooklets into angry torrents, and 
loosening the soil from its hold on the rocky acclivity of Mount Willey, 
sending it down the mountain side with a fearfiil roar, threatening de- 
struction to everything in its path. M r. Willey, his wife, live children, 
and two hired men, comprised the inmates of the house ; and it is sup- 
posed that they became -frightened and fled from the iiouse to escape 
the peril, and rushed into the very ja-ws of death, lieing overwhelmed 
in the avalanche, not one es'caping to tell the tale. The faithful house- 
dog, however, appeared at Conway, antl endeavored to give intelligence 
of what had happened by all the resources of his jiower of communica- 
tion. The bodies of six of the victims were recovered, but three of the 
children found permanent burial in the debris. The saddest feature of 
the calamity is the fact that had they remained in the house no harm 
would have befallen them, as a large rock at the back of the house di- 
vided the slide, and sent it by on either side, leaving the building un- 
touched. The scarred side of the mountain still shows the track of the 
avalanche, only enough soil being left to support a growth of white 
birches. 

Avalanche Brook, so called from being regarded as the cause of 
the disaster, has on it a beautiful cataract, called the Sylvan Glade 
Cataract, and higher up, another called Sparkling Cascade. 

Such of the forgoing objects of interest as are visible from the train 
are pointed out by the condiictor and trainmen, and an occasional halt 
is made to permit of a longer view of some point of special importance. 
If time will permit, it is well to stop off at one or more of the stations, 
and proceed by following trains. But whether this be your privilege 
or not, the ride will be one not soon forgotten, and its repetition de- 
sired and longed for. 

Below Willey ^Mountain the valley opens out into a wider expanse, 
and the scenery becomes less wild and I'omantic, biit none the less 
beautiful with the change. The Willey-Brook Bridge is a tine specimen 
of engrneering skill, and is ciossed by the train, giving the courageous 
passengers a chance to peer into the deep gulf which it s[)ans, and the 
timid ones occasion to " hold their breath " at the thought of a possible 
tumble, should '-anything happen." The bridge, however, gives no oc- 
casion for fear, as it is of enormous strength, although not puntlerous in 
appearance. 

A short distance below this point, the train crosses the famous 
Frankenstein Trestle, an iron structure five hundred feet long and 
eighty feet high. Near this are the Giant's Stairs, Mount Resolu- 
tion and Mount Crawford, the latter nearly opjjosite Beinis Station. 




SCENES IN THE WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. P. & O. RAILROAD. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCIT. 



Ill 



Near here is the old Mount Crawford House, now closed, where Abel 
Crawford, the pioneer for whom the Mountain and Notch were named, 
" kept tavern " for many years, and told stories and legends of the 
mountains to his guests, and, on occasion, piloted them to the haunts 
of the shy trout, or to mountain summits, by paths long forgotten. 
His son, Ethan Allen Crawford, cut the first bridle path to Mount 
Washington, in 1821. 





VALLEY OF THE SACO RIVEK. 



ISTancy's Brook is soon reached and crossed, so named from a sad 
incident involving the old story of a deserted maiden, and a recreant lover 
who tied on the eve of the appointed wedding day, jnirsued by the poor 
girl, who perished from exposure, and was foiind in the snow at the 
foot of a tree, near the margin of the stream which now bears the name 
her mother gave her, a kindly way of commemorating the event with- 
out involving the family name. 

Sawyer's Eiver is crossed, as the road turns sharply to the east- 
ward, and at Upper Bartlett the interesting landmark known as Saw- 
yer's Rock commemorates the discovery of this pass, or rather the 



112 



CHICA(iO TO THE SEA. 



accomplishment of an event which attested its discovery, viz., getting a 
horse through the Notch, for wliich feat, as an evidence of the existence 
of the pass, Nash, the discoverer, and a brother hunter, received fi-om 
Governor Wentwoi'th a grant of land known as Nash &. Sawyer's Lo- 
cation. The last obstacle being this rock, the poor beast was let down 
over it by means of ropes, and Sawyer exultingly dashed his I'um bottle 
against it, which sufficed to christen it by the name it now bears. 

At Cti.en Station, connection is made with the stage line for the 
Glen House up the valley of Ellis Ei\er and through Pinkham Notch. 
Should the traveler feel disposed to make this triji, he will find much 
to reward him in the way of pictui'esque scenery, pleasant drives, etc. 
At a short distance from the road where it crosses Ellis River, a tine 
waterfall, known as Goodrich Falls may be seen. Passing the little 
village of "Jackson City," the road soon enters the i)ass known as 
Pinkham Notch, named from a family of early settlers, who con- 
structed the Notch road. 




GLEX-ELLIS FALL. 



Glen-Ellis Fall may be reached by a path diverging from the 
stage road. The Ellis River here descends a precipice seventy feet 
high. From its contiguration it was formerly called " Pitcher Fall," but 
the more poetic but less descriptive title seems to cling to it. 



NORTH CONWAY. 



118 



THE GLEN HOUSE, 

Previously mentioned as a Hne hostelry, is the terminus of the stage 
line. Here you will meet guests who have come by stage from Gor- 
ham, eight miles distant, on the Grand Trunk Kaihvay, or from the 
summit of Mount Washington, by the carriage road already described. 
This location is more than sixteen hundred feet above sea-level, and the 
clear, bracing atmosphere, the magnificent scenery, and the delightful 
drives in several directions, together with the excellent manner in which 
fhe hotel is kejit, are sufficient to account for its popularity and success. 
In the matter of stage-line management, it pi-obably has no superior in 
the world, that which conveys the passengers up the carriage road to 
the summit of Mount Washington being notably superior in point of 
equipment, and the well-known skill of its drivers. 

Excursions may be made from here to the Carter Notch, Osgood's 
Cascades, Summit of Mount Madison, Garnet Pools, Emerald Pool, 
Thompson's Falls, Glen-Ellis Falls, Crystal Cascade, Tuckerman's Ra- 
vine, and many other places of more than ordinary interest. 




APPROACH TO NOKTH CONWAY. — P. dc O. R. R. 

But again taking up our line of travel at Glen Station, the train soon 
emerges upon the beautiful Conway Intervales, Intervale Station V)eing 
the next stopping place. The Intervale House, near by, is a pleasant 
abode for those who choose to tarry. A short distance beyond is North 
Conway, a village of multitudinous attractions, and with a popularity as 
a summer resort that is siu-prising to the casual visitor, who, although 
seeing much to admire, fails to comprehend the peculiar coml)inations 
whicli l)ring people year after year to spend their summers in the vicinity. 
Superticially, the most attractive objects conspicuously visible are the 
hotels. The spacioiis Kiarsaroe House seems a veritable paradise for 



114 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



the traveler, and its tables are unexcelled. The views from its veran- 
dahs are superior, comprising the mountain ranges, the famous Pequaket 
or Kiarsarge Mountain, and the lovely Intervales, upon which the vil- 
lage is situated. The mountain from which the hotel receives its name is 
about three miles from the village, and the ascent may be made in the 
saddle or on foot. The altitude is .3,367 feet, and the view from the 
summit comprises the entire White Mountain Range, together with Mote 
Mountain, Rattlesnake Ridge, Sebago Lake with other bodies of water 
of less magnitude, and a stretch of landscape in every direction most 
pleasing to the eye, less grand and rugged, to be sure, than that we 
have been describing, but on that account more restful to the senses. 




KIARSARGE HOUSE AND MOUNTAIN. DISTANT VIEW. 



The other attractions at North Conway consist of Artist's Falls, Echo 
Lake, tlie Cathedral and Ledges, Diana's Baths, the Devil's Den, and 
a host of lovely drives in various directions, with sylvan paths for pe- 
destriauism ad lihifam. 

Conway Center, tive miles southeast of North Conway, is the next 
station, and has many charms as a summer resort. Mount Chocorua, 
with a shai-p pinnacle, towering up 3,540 feet above sea-level, is reached 
from here to good advantage, as is also Walker Pond, a short distance 
south of the town. 

We are now in the "smiling valley " of the Saco River, in the midst 
of cultivated farms and peaceful villages, in striking contrast with the 



8EUA(i() LAKE. 



115 



scenery just left behind. Crossing the boundary line between New 
Hampshii-e and Maine, our next station is Frveburg, whicli some po- 
etic writer has called the " Queen of the 8aco Valley. " It is indeed 
a lovely town, embowered in deep foliage, and affording the visitor 
most delightful drives. Jockey Cap, a huge granite pile, is near the 






L'rr;- 



MOUNT KIAKSARGE, OK I'EQUAKET. 

village ; and close by is Lovewell's Pond, the scene of an Indian l)att]e 
in 1725. Mount Pleasant is only seven miles distant, and has upon its 
summit a fine hotel. 

Passing m quick succession the stations of Browniield, Hiram, the 
three Baldwins, and 8teep Falls, we reach 

SEBAGO LAKE, 

Seventeen miles from Portland, and forty-three from North Conway. 
For a short distance before reaching the lake, the run is devoid of in- 
terest and exceedingly tame ; but as the road skirts the shores of this 
beautifiil sheet of water, and its broad expanse stretches away in the 
distance, bounded by wooded shores and sandy beeches, the change is 
magical, and the contrast a most pleasing one. Sebago itself is twelve 
miles long and nine miles wide, and is connected with Long Pond by 
means of Songo River and the "Bay of Naples," formerly "Brandy 
Pond," — before the days of the " Maine law." The entire chain of 
lakes, river and bay affords a steamboat ride of sixty-eight miles in the 
round trip. Bridgton, one of the steamer-landings on Loni; Pond, is 
the birth-place of the genial humorist " Artemus Ward." From Port- 
land, a pleasant and popular tiip consists of a ride to Sebago by the 



MOUNT DESERT ISI.ANL). 117 

morning train, a tri[) over the lake to Jiridgton, returning in time for 
the evening train to Portlanil. 

And thither, in the continuation of our excursion, we too mnst go. 
Only seventeen miles more of our long and delightfvd journey " from 
Chicago to the Sea " remain to be traversed. Almost regretfully we 
linger over the few last leagues of the trip, but remembering that either 
way from Portland our excursion may be lengthened indefinitely, we 
resume our seats in the train, and in fifty minutes are in 

THE METROPOLIS OF MAINE. 

Portland is pleasantly situated on a narrow peninsula projecting 
from the west shore of Casco Bay. This peninsula is about three miles 
in length from east to west, with considerable elevations at each end, 
giving the city a beautiful appearance as approached from the sea. 
Its harbor is one of the best on the Atlantic coast, being deep and ca- 
pacious, and pi'otected by land on all sides. The city is beaiitifully 
laid out, its public buildings are fine, and many of its private residences 
elegant. 

The commercial and business interests of the city are extensive and 
important, the value of the shipping owned in the district being very 
great, and its manufactures employing a large amount of capital. The 
railroads centering here are the Portland it Ogdensburg, Portland <k 
Rochester, Boston &, Maine, Eastern, Maine Central, and Grand Trunk. 

The leading hotels of Portland are the Falmouth, United states, 
Preble, City, Kirkland, aiid Merchants. 

The climate of Portland is remarkably salubrious, the city being 
peculiai-ly exempt from epidemics, or climatic diseases of any kind. 
The source of water supply (Sebago Lake), and the excellent facilities 
for drainage, undoubtedly contribute much to the healthfulness of the 
locality. These circumstances, together with the pi'oximity of beaches 
and other resorts, render Pox'tland a desirable place for summer so- 
journing, a fact of which no little advantage is taken in the season of 
travel. The steamship lines running from Portland to eastern ports 
along the coast of Maine and the maratime provinces, afford the tourist 
opportunities to extend his trip "away down East," as far as time and 
inclination will permit. One resort of special interest deserves men- 
tion while this subject is under consideration, on account of its remark- 
able attractiveness, and its increasing popularity. 

MOUNT DESERT ISLAND, 

One hundred and ten miles northeast from Portland, is reached by 
the Portland, Bangor and Machias Steamboat Line, whose boats 
make connection with the ti-ains from Boston and the White Mount- 
ains. They are staunch and seaworthy, and finely equipped ; and the 
trip along the shore, past the thrifty villages, and among the pictur- 
esque scenery, is full of delights. 

The island of Mount Desert lies quite near the mainland, with 



118 



CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 



which communication is had by means of a bridge which crosses at Tren- 
ton. ?5 In shape, the island is quite irregulai-, and is about eighteen 
miles long by twelve wide. It is nearly divided in two by Somes 
Sound, and its shores on all sides are indented by picturesque bays and 




inlets. The greater part of its surface is covered with mountain 
peaks, some thirteen in number, the highest, Mt. Green, I'ising fully two 
thousand feet above the sea. High up among these peaks are several 
beautiful lakes, which, with the streams that tlow from them, abound in 
trout. 



OLD ORCHARD BEACH. 119 

The tirst lamling point, approacliiuLT from Portland, is .Southwest 
Harbor. Here are several excellent hotels, and the scenery in the 
vicinity, and accessible by pleasant carriage drives, is beautiful and 
picturesque. Green Mountain is reached from this point to good ad- 
vantage by the westerly slope, a carriage road leading to the summit, 
where a hotel is located. 

Bar Harbor, tifteen miles beyond Southwest Harbor, is even more 
picturesque and romantic in its location than the latter. The scenery 
along the coast is bold and impi-es.sive, stupendous cliffs rising abruptly 
to the height of several hundred feet. Bar Harbor is plentifully sup- 
j^lied with hotels, and their facilities are often utilized by the throngs 
of artists and pleasure-seekers who make summer pilgrimages in seax'ch 
of the beaiitiful, the art galleries and studios of the country testifying 
to the success of the former in transferiing to canvas the gems of 
scenery which have formed the basis of so many studies and afforded 
so much delight. 

In addition to the many " down-east " trips that may be made from 
Portland, its nearaess to some of the line beaches of the Atlantic coast 
is another of its attractions as an objective point for the tourist. Two 
gi'eat railway lines connect Portland with Boston, and one or both of 
them reach all the principal intervening seaside resorts. 

One of the most noted of these is 

OLD ORCHARD BEACH. 

This celebrated seaside camp-ground. — for as a place for temper- 
ance and religious camp-meetings it is best known, — is reached by the 
Boston ifc Maine Railroad, extensively advertised by its managers as 
the " shore route " between Boston and Portland. And it may not be 
amiss to say, in this connection, that it is really one of the finest 
equipped and best managed railroads in the country. Its general su- 
perintendent, Mr. J. T. Furber, is one of the successful railroad man- 
agers of ISTew England, a tireless worker, looking after every detail of 
the road and its operation, with a degree of energy and "push" that 
marks the successful business man wherever you meet him in 
Yankeedom. 

Old Orchard not only has a vast expanse of Ijeautiful l)each, but 
possesses the additional charm of woodland parks and groves, hun- 
dreds of acres in extent, stretching away from the shore, enclosing cool 
retreats and shady paths, where the forest has been left almost in its 
primeval state. This happy combination of " woods and seashore" in 
one locality, affording a pleasing variety and gratifying the tastes of 
all, is one secret of the great popularity of this resort. The splendid 
hotel, so conspicuous in the background of our illustration, is kept in a 
style to please the most fastidious, it being the leading hotel of this 
vicinity. The less pretentious house in the foreground is a great fa- 
vorite with many visitors, not only for its home-like air, but for the 
beautiful views to be had from its verandahs and the charming walks 



EASTERN SEASIDE RESORTS. 121 

and drives in the vicinity. Its patrons speak of it iii terms of the 
highest commendation. 

Wells Beach and Kennebunkport are also reached by the Boston 
& Maine Baih-oad, and are among the long list of popular resorts on 
the eastern coast. The latter has an elegant hotel, the " Ocean Bhitf," 
which commands a beautiful view of ocean and landscape combined. 

At Dover, on the main line to Boston, connection is made with 
the Winnipesaukee division to Alton Bay, a celebrated summer and 
camp-ground resort, at the head of the bay, which is an arm of the 
beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee, extending in a southerly direction. 
The steamer Mount Washington makes frequent trips fiom this point 
to Wolfboro and Center Harbor, from either of which places connec- 
tion is made for the Weirs, on the Boston, Concord & Montreal Rail- 
road, by steamer "Lady of the Lake." 

The Eastern Bailroad, the other through line between Portland 
and Boston, reaches several of the beaches already mentioned, and is 
the direct route to Hampton and Bye Beaches, Boar's Head, and 
and Bevere Beach, the latter sustaining the same relation to Boston 
as does Coney ]sland to New York. 

The Isles of Shoals, nine miles ofi Portsmouth harbor, are also 
reached by the Eastern Bailroad to Portsmoutli, thence by steamer to 
Appledore and Star Islands, where two palace hotels, the Appledore, 
on the island of the same name, and the Oceanic on Star Island, are 
kept in regal style by Laighton Biothers & Co. The group comprises 
nine islands, the largest of which is Appledore. It is also the best 
known, having been for many years the favorite summer home of many 
of the prominent literal y people of New England. It is the residence 
of Mrs. Celia (Laighton) Thaxter, whose pleasing poems have gratified 
so many readers ; and her childhood was spent in this lovely spot, the 
veiy air of which is full of poetic inspiration. 

White Island is the location of a light-house which the readers of 
the Atlantic Monthly will remember as the scene of many of the pleas- 
ing incidents in Mrs. Thaxter's "Child Life at the Isles of Shoals." 

IN RETURNING FROM THE SEA, 

The excursionist may traverse again the route through the mountains, 
— and some portions of it are well worthy of a second visit, or by a 
different route may reach the St. Lawrence Biver, and tind new ob- 
jects and scenes to claim his attention. Should the latter be his choice, 
he may take the train of the Concord k Portsmouth Bailroad, at Ports- 
mouth, and go via Manchester, Concord, White Biver Junction and 
St. Albans to Ogdensburg or Montreal, thence homeward by the St. 
Lawrence Biver, or the rail route, as preferred. 

Many, however, will wish to see Boston or New York ; and a 
pleasant trip, comprising a visit to these two cities, may be made by 
boat or rail from Portland to Boston, thence by Long Island Sound to 
New York. The Sound Steamer Lines are four in number, all of them 



122 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

having an initial stage by rail to some point on the Sound where con- 
nection is made with the boats. 

The Fall River Line comprises a trip by rail from Boston to 
Fall River, forty-nine miles, there transferring to one of the floating 
palaces, the "Bristol," the "Providence," or the new and elegant "Pil- 
grim," the latter being conceded to be the finest boat on the Sound. J. 
R. Kendrick, Esq., is the general manager of this line, with head- 
quarters at Boston, and Geo. L. Connor is the general passenger agent, 
located in New York. 

The Stonington Line has for its inception the rail route to Ston- 
ington, Connecticut, via Providence, where connection is made with 
the elegant steamers, "Massachusetts" and "Rhode Island." This 
route has more of rail and less of water than the preceding, and avoids 
the "outside" passage around Point Judith, a consideration that has 
its weight with the timid and sensitive. 

The Providence Line is under the same management as that of 
the foregoing, and comprises a rail trip to Providence, and boat from 
there to New York, the steamers " Stonington " and " N'arragansett " 
being employed on this line. 

The Norwich Line has for its beginning a rail trip to New Lon- 
don, thence by steamer to New York. 

The start from Boston is in the early evening, the arrival at the 
various boat landings being in ample season for " bed-time," and the 
trip through the Sound is a night ride, arriving in New York in sea- 
son to connect with morning trains if desired. The passengers who 
arise in moderately good season will enjoy the latter jiortion of the 
ride, as the boat enters the famous passage known as "Hell Gate," 
passes down the East River in view of the islands on which are located 
the various reformatory, penal, and charitable institutions of New York 
City, continuing between the cities of New York and Brooklyn, under 
the famous suspension bridge, and around the Batteiy and Castle 
Garden into the North River. The shijiping in the harbor, the 
sprightly tugs steaming here and there, the fei-ry boats plying between 
Long Island and New York, and the ceaseless activity and bustle of all 
things animate, all combine to give to the scene an air of life and vigor 
so characteristic of all that pertains to the great metropolis of Amei'ica. 

The sights and scenes of the city itself are so numerous and varied 
that the pen falters at the thought of even attempting to mention them. 
If the reader has a desire to " do " the city in a systematic and thorough 
manner, he should secure the company of some one familiar with its 
customs and its places of intei'est, or consult the pages of some city 
guide book. 

FROM NEW YORK TO THE WEST. 

The retumi to the West from New York City may be made by sev- 
ei-al different routes, at the option of the tourist. The New York 
Central and Hudson River Railroad affords a pleasant ride up the 



NEW YORK AND 150ST0N TO THE WEST. 123 

Hudson River, among its be;intiful scenery to Albany, thence across 
tlie State to Suspension Britlge or Butialo, The new Wkst Shore 
line, by a nearly parallel route, traverses the other side of the Hudson, 
and will soon be completed for througli ti'avel. The trip up the Hud- 
son by boat is also a favorite in the summer season, as affording the 
linest views of the points of intei-est that have given to this river the 
title of the '• Rhine of America." 

For picturesque scenery, no route can be regarded as equal to the 
New York, Lake Erie and Western, familiarly known as the •' Erie 
Line." Crossing the ferry to Jersey C'ity, the })assenger by this line 
finds the trains of this road awaiting at the station, with through cars 
attached for Buffalo, Rochester, and the principal Western points. 
Leaving Jersey City by the morning train, the tourist will ffnd that the 
day's ride among the picturesque mountain, liver, and lake scenery all 
along the line will be one of great interest and enjoyment. The cour- 
tesy and urbanity of the trainmen and conductors are especially notice- 
able, and the eating houses, at which ample time is given for meals, are 
among the best railroad restaurants it is the privilege of the traveler 
to visit. 

Connection is made at Buffalo with the Canada Southern division 
of the Micliigan Central, fi'oui which point the return may be made 
via Detroit, to the starting ])oint of the journey. 

BOSTON TO THE WEST. 

The return trip from Boston, omitting the visit to New York, may 
be made very direct, should the tourist so elect. The short line from 
Boston, and on many accounts a very pleasant one, is via the cele- 
brated HoosAC Tunnel, comprising the Fitchburg Railroad to North 
Adams, and the Troy & Boston Railroad to Troy, thence via the New 
York Central to Suspension Bridge or Buffalo. This route presents 
the advantages of through sleeping coaches from Boston to Chicago, 
without change, a most desira,ble feature for families or for ladies trav- 
eling alone. 

The line takes its name from the wonderful tunnel througli Hoosac 
Mountain, which opens a roadway for the locomotive directly across 
the State of Massacliusetts. This immense engineering enterprise was 
begim in 18G2, on the supposition that the internal structure of the 
mountain would be found of a character to admit of easy excavation. 
The undertaking proved, however, that its projectors had been misled 
by the geologists, and solid rock was the substance to be removed for 
the greater part of nearly ffve miles. At an immense cost, the excava- 
tion was carried on, and in 1875 was open for the passage of trains, 
and later was perfected by arches of masonry where strengthening was 
necessary. 

The equipment of the "Tunnel Line" is complete and in all respects 
first class. The starting point in Boston is from the depot of the 
Fitchburg Railroad, of which John Adams, Esq., is the genial and 



124 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. 

popular superintendent. The Western office of the line is in Chicago, 
at 135 Randolph Street, in charge of C. E. Lambert, Esq., the general 
Western passenger agent. 

The return from Boston may also be made by way of Springtield 
and AUiany, by the Boston i: Albany Railroad, thence by the New 
York Central to Butialo or Suspension Bridge. 

And now, having taken the reader, in imagination, from his home 
in the West to the Atlantic seaboard, through some of the most de- 
lightful scenery on the American Continent, and indicated a vaiiety of 
routes by which he may retui'n, with a few closing words the duty of 
the writer will be done. Possibly no one traveler or party will trav- 
erse all the routes described in this work. In some cases we have in- 
dicated that choice may be made of several methods of reaching a given 
point, and the taste or preference of the tourist, or the convenience of 
a party traveling in company, will often decide the route. We have 
endeavored to give fair and impartial description of the attractions of- 
fered by the various lines of travel, — often too painfully conscious of 
the inadequacy of words to do justice to the subject considered, — and 
leave the reader to choose for himself a route from among the variety 
set forth. 

Before closing, we will add that a large variety of excursion tickets 
will be found on sale at the principal ticket offices of the Michigan 
Central Railroad, from which a selection can be made in accordance 
with your taste or preferences. If the perusal of this woi'k has assisted 
in deciding your route, you will probably be able to secure a ticket 
through to the sea to accommodate your wishes. By a very convenient 
arrangement, your choice of a portion of the route may be left until ar- 
riving at the St. Lawrence River, when the purser of the steamer will 
exchange your ticket, giving opportunity to select from a variety of ex- 
cursions, with added side trips to various points of interest. 

And now, with a consciousness of its many imperfections, we bring 
this work to a close, and take a regretful leave of the reader, with the 
ho))e that the pages of the book may prove serviceable in making en- 
joyable the journey of many a tourist 

From Chicado fo fhe Sea. 



-*CONTENTS.=^ 



Adirondacks 73 

Alexandria Bay 4it 

American Fall" Xiaijara ^0, 24 

Approaeh to Northt'onway, P. & O. R. 11. 113 

Asceiu of Mount Washington, 83 

Bar Harbor. Mt. Desert, 118 

HethleluMn. X. H 81 

Riddle's Stairs, Niagara, 31 

Biiniini: Spring, Niagara 42 

Canada Southern Railway, 17 

Caualian Carryall, 50 

Canadian P\ill 33 

Cape Diamond, Qnebec, 64 

Capes Eternity and Trinity, 71 

Cave of the Winds, Niagara 31 

Cliateau^Mv Chasm, O. & L. C. R. R., 74 

Citv of Buffalo 17 

City of Portland, Maine, 116 

Climl)ino: Mount Jefferson 90 

Conway ('enter, N. II 114 

Crawford House, 106 

Crossing the Ferry, Detroit, 16 

Detndt.'the City of the Strait, 15 

Devil's Hole, Niagara, 43 

Dining Car Svstem 9 

Distant view'of Mt. Washington 91 

'• Down " vs. '■ Up,"— Rapids and Canal, . . 54 

Eagle Cliff 98 

Eastward Ho : 5 

Electric Hlumination, Niagara 29 

Fabyan Hotise. White ^loiuitains, 83 

Fall River Line, Boston and New York, . 122 

Falls of Montmorenci, 67 

Falls of Niagara, 18 

Fast New York Express, 8 

Father Hennepin's Sketch of Niagara, ... 36 

Flume and Bouliler, Pranconia Notch 101 

First View of Niagara Falls 23 

Franconia Mountains 100 

Franconia Notch 97 

French Canadian Home, 67 

Gates of Quebec, two views 66 

Glen Ellis Fall 112 

Glen House Stage Line. 95 

Glen House. White Mountains 113 

Goat Island. Niagara 29 

Goat Island Bridge 30 

Grand Island. Niagara 35 

" Gulf of Mexico," 86 

Ha-HaBav 71 

Hermit's Pool 108 

Hoosac Tunnel Line, 123 

Horseshoe Palls and Rapids, 22 

Inclined Plane Railway, Niagara 28 

Indian Curiosity Seller, 72 

Isles of Shoals, 121 

Kiarsarge House 114 

Kiarsarge Mountain, 115 

Lachine Rapids, 55 

Lake of the Thousand Islands, 45 

Lake Winnipesaiikee, 103, 105 

Lizzie Bourne Monument, 87 

Luna Island, Niagara, 31 

Lundy's Lane Battle Field, 43 

Luxury of Camp Life, 47 

Medical and Surgical Sanitarium, 11 

Michigan Central Railroad, 7 

Michigan State Normal School, 15 

Michigan State University, 14 



Montreal and Quebec, 57 

Montreal from .VIount Royal Park . .... 59 

Montreal from the River.". 58 

Mount Desert Island [ 117 

Mount Garlield, 94 

Mount Lafayette '.97, lOO 

Mount Moosilauke, 103 

Mount WashinL'ton Carriage Road, '. . 95 

Mount Washington Railway 85 

Mount Wa^hinglon Summit House, 87 

Mount Wilhtrd ]0G 

Mounts .Adams and Madison, 89 

Na\y Island, Niagara .3.5 

New Su piMision Bridge, 26 

New York to the West, 122 

Niagara Falls [ 18 

Niagara Palls from the Ferrv, 27 

Niagara Palls. Ontario, '. 24 

Ogdensburg and Prescott 51 

Ogdensburg to Portland, 73 

Ogilensburg & Lake Champlain Railroad, 73 

Old Man of the .Mountain, 97 99 

Old Orchard Beach 119 

Pemigewasset House. B. C. & M. R. K.,.. 104 

Presidential Range, White Mountains,... 81 

Prolile House. Franconia Notch 96 

Prospect Park, 27 

Quebec, 61- 63 

Rafts in the St. Lawrence Rapids, 55 

Rates of Toll, etc. , Niagara 44 

Retrocession of the Falls, Niagara, 37 

Returning from the Seashore 121 

Ride Around .Mount Royal 59 

Round Island House 48 

Round Island Park 47 

Saguenay River, 69 

Scenes on the P. & O. Railroad, 110 

Sebago Lake 115 

Silver Cascade, 1O8 

Sinclair House, Bethlehem, 82 

Steamer Rothesay, American Line, 46 

St. Johnsbury & Lake Champlain Railroad, 78 

St. Lawrence River, 45 

Summer Travel (j 

Sunrise on Mount W^ashington 91 

Suspeitsion Bridge, 39 

Table Rock, Niagara, 25 

Tadousac 70 

Terrapin Bridge and Rock, 33 

Terrapin Tower, 34 

Thousand Island House, 49 

Thousand Island Park 48 

Three Sister Islands, Niagara 34 

Tip-Top House in Winter 93 

"Tricks that are Vain," 22 

Tuckerman's Ravine, Alount Washington, 95 

Lender the Cataract, 32 

Valley of the Saco River, Ill 

Watching for Sunrise, 92 

Weirs Station and Steamboat Landing 102 

Westminster Park, 49 

Whirlpool Rapids. Niagara 41 

White Mountain Notch 106 

White Mountains, 79 

White Mountains, from Jefferson, 90 

Willey House 109 

Wolfe's New Monument 65 

Wolfe's <.)ld Monument, 64 



" Only All Rail Route to the Thousand Islands. -• 

^=^= THIE == 




liil Ififw Ifillpiii 




POPULARLY KNOWN AS THE 



UeMWftt Line to the Isle 



This Line runs via Utica, Trenton Falls, the Sunset Slope of the Adirondack 
Mountains, Black River, Sugar River, and Indian River to the Thousand Islands 
of the River St. Lawi"ence. It is the only scenic route. 

New Fast Trains, Make Very Few Stops, 

and carry elegant Through Cars from Utica to the River St. Lawrence. 



THOUSAND ISLAND FAST LINE 

Leaves Chicago 9.00 a. m., arrives at Utica 1 1.25 a. m. (dinner), leaves Utica 12. 10 
p. m., arrives Trenton Falls 12.45 P- ™-' Clayton, 4.05 p. m. Immediate con- 
nection with Steamboat for Round Island, Thousand Island Park, and Westmin- 
ster Park, arrives Alexandria Bay 5.10 p. m. 

H'agiiei' Cars from Cliicago to Utioa autl ITtiea to Clayton. 

EVENING FAST LINE 

Leaves Chicago 3.30 p. m., arrives Utica 2.00 p. m. (dinner), leaves Utica 4.50 
p. m., arrives at Trenton Falls 5.25 p. m., Lowville 7.00 p. m. (supper), Clayton 
9.05 p m., Alexandria Bay 10.10 p. m. 

Wagner Cars tVoni Cliioago to ITtifa ; ]\e\r Springfielrt Coaolies 
li'oin Ctica to Clayton. A <tiii<-k. Cool, and JPleasant 
Jonrney. Cnion Depot at Utiea. No Transfers. 
A First Class Steel Kail liine. 



The Illustrated Book of Routes and Rates for Summer Tours, 100 pages with 
Illustrations, Maps, and Cost of 300 different tours via Thousand Islands and 
P.apids, Montreal, etc., etc. Send two postage stamps for a copy, before deciding 
on your summer trip. Through Tickets via Utica are on sale at all Ticket offices 
of the Michigan Central Railroad and Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railway. 
If you are unable to get Through Tickets via this route, buy to Utica only. 

J. F. MAYNARD, THEO. BUTTERFIELD, 

fteiieral Superinti'iult'iit. Gfii'I Pas. Agent, I'TICA, >'. Y. 



Tie Best [(iiiippefl Railroad in tlie lortd. 



Without exaggeratins. and keeping closo within the narrow limits of fact, it may be as- 
serted without fear of truthful contradiction, that the 

CHICAGO & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY 

Is not only the best and most perfectly equipped railroad in the world, but it is also the most 
important as to the territory it traverses, the numerous business centers and pleasure resorts 
that it reaches, and the facilities it offers for pleasant, speedy, safe and comfortable transit 
for all classes of passengers It caters alike to the needs, tastes and abilities of the mill- 
ionaire merchant prince; to the farmer, with his plain and simple wants; and to the eco- 
nomical and necessitous; and gives to each the full value of all he pays for. Its luxuriantly 
liiiishtMl and furnished palace sleeping cars, and its more than luxurious drawing-room 
coaches are marvels of beauty and comfort. Its coaches are new and of the most perfect 
models that have been adopted by any company, and they are always kept sweet, clean and 
pure. Its dining cars are superb, and the meals and service provided in them are equal to 
that given by any tirst-class hotel in the country. 



WHERE IS IT? 

Starting from Chicago and having various 
main lines running west, nonh-west, and 
north, it covers about all that is desirable iu 
Northern Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, the upper 
Michigan peninsula, Minnesota and Central 
and South-eastern Dakota and North-eastern 
Nebraska. 

It is eminently the railroad of the north- 
west; and from iis commanding location, it 
controls the traffic of all of the territory it 
traverses. 



WHAT IS IT? 

Over .5.000 miles of the best built and 
best maintained railroad there is in the 
country. It is equal iu every respect to 
any road in the world, and is believed to 
be better than any of its competitors. Its 
lines are built of heavy steel rail; its bridges 
are of steel, iron, and stone, and all its ap- 
pointments are as good as money can buy. 



COLORADO & CALIFORNIA. 

This Company's line between Chicago and Council Bluffs (Omaha) is sliortcr tlian any 
other between these points, and was the pioneer m forming connection with the Trans-Con- 
tinental Union and Central Pacific Railroads. Nearly all^experienced overland travelers 
seek this line, because it is known to be the best, shortest, most coniTortable, and in every 
way the most desirable. To seek other more circuitous and inferior routes is accepted as an 
evidence of inexperience or want of information. 

If you are destined to or from Colorado. Nebraka, Utah, Wyoming, Montana. Idaho, 
Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington Territory, China, Japan, the Sandwich Islands. New 
Zealand or Australia, you should, in making the trip between Chicago and Council Bluffs 
(Omaha), iu either direction, see that your tickets read over this great road. 

ST. PAUL, MINNEAPOLIS & WINNIPEG. 

This road, ''St. Paul Line,"' is the short and desirable route between Chicago and Madison, 
St. Paul and Minneapolis, and the best to travel over if you are destined to or from Chicago 
and any point north or north-west of St. Paul. Winona and Mankato, Minn.; Frankfort, 
Huron, Pierre, Aberdeen, Columbia and Watertown, Dakota; Milwaukee, Fond dn Lac,Osh- 
kosh, Watertown and Sheboygan, Wis.; Freeport, Elgin, Dixon and P'nlton, 111.; Clinton, 
Cedar Rapids, Des Moines, Webster City, Algona, Tama and Council Bluffs, Iowa, are a few 
of its hundreds of prominent local stations. It reaches most of the pleasant summer resorts 
of Wisconsin and Minnesota, and is the road to take for the health and scenic resorts of the 
Rocky Mountains, the National Yellowstone Park, and nearly all of the notable western and 
north-west resorts that are accessible by rail. 

It connects in Union Depots with the Union Paciiic Railway at Council Bluffs, and at St. 
Paul with all roaiis diverging from that point. 

Yon can procure tickets over this route from nearly every coupon ticket agent in 
the country. When iniying your tickets, read them carefully, and be sure that at least one 
coupon reads over the Chicago & Xorth-Western Ry. Ask your nearest coupon ticket 
agent for one of its large maps; they are FREE, and will show you all of this Company's 
lines as they are. 



FOR COMFORT, SAFETY AND SCENERY 

CHOOSE, IN TRAVELING EAST OR WEST, THE 




fflTif^ 



' "'■■"^ '^'"Jife J^b»*##*>k*»*. 




"5J 

Which forms, in connection with the GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY, the 

Old and Favorite New England iloute 

TO AND FROM ALL POINTS WEST. 



The Rolling Stock and Equipment of the Central Vermont Railroad is second to 
no Road in this country. It is the only line lunning 

Betvreen Chicago and Boston without Change, 
AND SOLID TRAINS OF ELEGANT COACHES AND BAGGAGE CARS 

Without Change between Montreal and Boston. 



Steel Rails, Iron Bridges, with Westinghouse Air Brake, Miller Platform, 
Coupler and Buffer on every train, assure safety while passing swiftly through 
Mountain, Lake and River Scenery of the most beautiful and varied description. 

The Train Service of this Road is so arranged that sure connections are made 
with the Grand Trunk Railway, and with Railroads in New England to and from 
all the principal cities, villages and towns in 



I. 



Pullman Cars Montreal to Springfield, and Wagner Cars 
Montreal to New York, Without Change. 

First-Class Restaurants, with reasonable charges, and ample time given for meals. 

BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH CANADA IN BOND, 

Avoiding all trouble of customs. 

During the Suiiiiiier, Excuriioii Tickets are Sold over llii§ 
Line at Oreatly Red need Rates. 

Ask for rates via this Line before buying, and note that your tickets read via 

CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD. 

For sale at all Stations and responsible Ticket Offices East and West. 

COMPANY'S OFFICES. — 260 Washington Street, Boston; 271 Broadway, 
New York : 136 James Street, Montreal. 

J.W. HO BART, General Supt. S. W. CUJVIMINCS, Gen, Pass'r Agent. 

General Offices — St. Albans, Yt. 



SUMMER TOURS 



L^I 



-R 




STliA.UiiK I'AssiaG PiCTi KK!) KUClv-^. 

The attention of Summer Tourists, contemplatiug a trip for health and recreation, 
is invited to the attractions of a Tour via the Great Lakes on one of the following 
PjVlace Steamers : — 

India, China, Japan, Winslow, Njack, Arctic, 
Empire State, Badger State, and St. Louis, 



The Lake Sujierior TranMt 6c., 

Leaving Detroit, Cleveland, Erie, and Buffalo, for Duluth, at the head of Lake 
Superior, and between the ports above named. To those who have not the leisure 
to travel the entire chain of lakes, we offer a Series of Short Excursions, on 
Lakes Erie, Huron, or Superior. Steamers leave Detroit, from foot of Woodward 
Avenue, as follows: For Sault Ste. Marie, Marquette, Hancock, Houghton, Ash- 
land, Bayfield, and Duluth, Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, 
at 11 o'clock, p. M. For Cleveland, Erie, and BuflEalo Sundays, Mon'days, Wednes- 
days, and Saturdays, at 5 o'clock, p.m. A Guide Book, descriptive of the routes, 
entitled "Summer Tours via the Great Lakes," will be sent free on receipt of 
stamp, by addressing J. T. WHITING, General Agent L. S. T. Co., Detroit, Mich., 
or the undersigned. 

T. P. CARPENTEE, (ien. Pass. Agl. Lake Superior Transit Co., 

BrFFALo, N. Y. 



SMITH'S DIAGRAM 

FillilillifMf lllil 

SHOWING 

-McThe Relation of Any Motion to Every Other IVIotion,^!^ 

AND 

Jin.>n'erin(j at a (jlanvc vrcj- oOO Quctlio)!,) in ParViamenlarij Practice; 

tof^ether with a Kcij coxtaixiHij I'oxci^e lli)di> [4, iiifvctionl) for 

Cc7idiictinrj the BulAnc.>h vj Deliberatire AuemhlieA. 

1^" It is to the Study of Parliamentary Practice wliat a Map is to the Study of Geograpliy. 



From the ]^ew York lii«le|»i'iB4l<'iit. :>Isir<la O, 18S2. 
"Smith's Diagram of Parliamentary Rules" is an admirably ingenious simpli- 
fication of the confused matter of parliamentary practice. By a very simple ar- 
rangement, motions of all kinds, in the order of their precedence, are placed in the 
center, printed in large type, and their relation to every possible rule is indicated 
by connecting lines. The diagram is accompanied by a key, which, in explaining 
itself, clears up the subject as well, and gives concise hints and directions for the 
conduct of deliberative assemblies. Mr. Uriah Smith has put more of the essence 
of parliamentary practice into small space and lucid order than we find in any 
other manual. 

From ,1. IVarroii lit'ilor. Speaker oT the IIoii><e of 
lS<'|>r<'seiilatives. WaKliiiig-(4»ii. 

I have carefully examined the^voIume,"and take pleasure in saying that I re- 
gard the work as a very valuable one, and arranged so as to indicate to either the 
casual reader or even an expert the special as well as general rules controlling a 
particular motion. Your work seems to have been thoroughly done, and 1 cheer- 
fully commend it as a vade mecum for parliamentarians. 

From lion. I>sivi«1 IB. .Jerome, lv\-<>overiior ol* j^lielti^aii. 

Can 1)6 utilizetl by a presiding ofiicer at a glance, and without the emliarrassing 
delay necessary to consult ordinary authorities. 

From Beiig. 1^. Ilewift. Speaker ol" tlie IIoii<iie ol" R«'pre*ieii<a- 
iiveN, llarri>«i»iir$;'. Fa. 

After a careful examination of your "Diagram of Parliamentary Rules," I lind 
it a most exhaustive and complete compendium of parliamentary law, afibrding, at 
a glance, solutions of almost every question in parliamentary practice. It cannot 
fail to meet with public favor. 

From Frof. I. T>. Stone, tornierly Superintendent of the 
City Seliools <»S" Itattle l"i'e«'k. 

For practical use it is worth all the massive treatises in the world. I-iy a happy 
device you have brought the whole perplexing code of parliamentary laws into such 
brief space and simple shape that any jioint of order can be determined at a glance, 
and wif/iont lurning a page. Of the flood of new "aids to instruction," this is 
one of the very few which really meets and satisfies "a long felt want." 



Price, ty mail, postpaid: cloth binding, 50 cents; in morocco, $1.00. 

Address REVIEW & HERALD PUB. CO., Battle Creek, Miclr 



NICHOLS, SHEPARD& CO 

BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN. 

[Works at iiitefsoctinii of MicluLiaii Cuiiti-al and Grand Trunk llailwavs. J 




Threshing Machinery, 

TRACTION AND PORTABLE ENGINES, 




THE 3TJ^l>riDJ^lElID O'F EXIGEXjIjIElsrOIB. 



Marvelous I>ural>ilit.v : ^Voii<l<'rl*iil Power: 
Ele$v<iiit AVorkiiiansip; 

Reaufiriil Finisli: Superior Material. 

Send for circulars and price lists. (Sent free.) 



TRANSATLANTIC STEAMSHIP AGENCY. 

This Aijuiicy reprej^ent-; the leading and ini)<t patrouized Steamship Lines 
plying between 



AMERICA AND EUROPE. 



First and 

Second <'al)in 

Round-Trip Tickets 

At Greatly 

Reduced Rates. - 




TICKETS 

''Old always as low as 
U Headqnarters, and 
1)( rths promptly se- 
(. nred (by telegraph, 
when necessary.) 

Prepaid Tickets foi tho^-u w ishing to ^c nd foi fiiond^ in England, '^cotland, Ireland, Ger- 
many, or any other Euiopem coiinti v at i-toni^hin,l\ low i ite'~ 

Circulars, or any infoimation about ticktts funuslitd piomptlj on application to 

Box 2277. A. SWEDBERG, Battle Creek, Mich. 




MEDICAL AND SURGICAL 

SANITARIUM 

Battle Creek, Mich. 

The Largest and Most Complete Health 
Institutioo in the West. 

} Unri\aled facilities for the treatment of chronic 

rh-y and surgical cases. Baths, Electricity, Massage, 

and all the most appro\ ed forms of treatment. 

Send for circular. Address SANITARIUM, 

Battle Creek, Mich. 



GE N U I N 



Roman, Naples, Padua, and Veronese, 

FOR ALL 



Carefully ganged, and the most Perfect in Color, Finish. Durability, and Purity of 
Tone. Sold Under Guaranty ! Imported and for sale by this house only. 

Musical hufi'ffmenU and Merefiandh^e, 

— ^lanufacturcrs of the — 
"PETERS" HAND-MADE CLARINET REEDS, 

The most Durable, producing the Finest Tone ; 

Also, the "PETERS" PATENT VIOLIN PAD, 

For Supporting the ^'iolin. 
TESTII«^01TI.^LS I^ItOJVn I€:XJ3SrX5E,E3DS OS" •VIOIjIITISXS 



VALUABLE CATALOGUE, showing how and where strings are made, modes of 
testing, gauging, selecting, stringing instruments, etc., sent Free I Address 

W. I. PETERS & CO., 

Box 2126, Battle Creek, Mich. 




'■J Bl «B"Ji 
BATTLE CREEK, MICH., 



^^ AUTOMATIC" SCHOOL CESKiS. 



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A ^f^¥ Principle, Uiiivei'sallj' A|>i»i'ove«lI 

Simple. Strong'. Convenient. Iteantiliil! 

Tlie Most Popular Seliool Seat in Use! 

T/ris S.-at is a DECIDED AD PRANCE upon all the Old Styles. Do not 
use the Old when the New is better! 
The attention of school officers is invited to the above Seats. The "AUTO- 
MATIC " is now in use in most of the prominent schools in the West, and very 
generally throughout the United States. Its superior merits have been fully dem- 
onstrated No other seat can compare with it in the essential features of Hoaltll- 

fuliiess, Comfort, and Durability. 

Send for our fully illustrated descriptive catalogue, which will give you a cor- 
rect idea of the Seat, and will show you what leading educators think of it. This 
catalogue also contains information respecting all kinds of School Supplies, 
together with elaborate 

Planfi ^^ S}ieeificnfiont> of Scficollitdldinfjt^j 

Which are of great value. It will be sent you gratis, on application. 



HEATERS. — We are now able to offer you the best School Room Heater 
in the market. Better and more economical than either stoves or furnaces. See 
catalogue. 



Teachers', Principals' and Office Desks in Large Variety. 

If you want anything for the school room — ^Maps, Globes, Slate Blackboards, 
Slating, Ci'ayons, Erasers, Bells, Reading Charts, Physiological Charts, Window 
Shades, Dictionaries, etc., — write to 

UNION SCHOOL FURNITURE CO.. 



OHICAaO OFFICE : ISO Wabash Avsnue. 



Battle Creek, Michigan. 



-.=^^3B O XJ Xj T ' S 0^:.=^ 




CUTS PANELS OF ANY DESIGN OR STYLE 

Of Mould, ill the Solid Wood, with Neatness and Dispateii. 
IT IS A FIRST-CLASS 

llSl, ^ euif 4G1 lOILBll. 

Also, does beautiful Dovetailing on Thick or Thin Stuffs. 



MSMVNA^^ ^V^^SA/V<MSH 



MARSH PATENT 

With Circular and Scroll Saw, Moulding and Wletal Turning Attacliments. 

" There is PLEASURE in it." " There is HEALTH in it." 

" th:ei^.:ki is iMionsrE^r insr it i" 



Send for Circulars and Prices to 



BATTLE GREEK MACHINERY CO., Battle Greek, Mich., 



SOXiE ]yi:.A.iq"TJF.A.CT"U"E.EItS. 



Gr' ^ 



1 



^J(fc^^^aggg:: ^ j^ jg^ 




SjwrUmen imd TotiriM^ Jiffenfion Mil 



OSOOOID'S 




Patented Feb. 26. 187S. 

The above I'epresents our 12-foot Boat, extended, ready for use. 

iL;ht, with Paddlj, for Tr'iut Fishing', Exploring, Duck Hunting, etc., 25 povfids. Weight, with 
Bottom-B jard. Oars, etc., everjt.iing cjmplete, 50 pounds. 

View of the Boat in its com- 
pact form, showing Boat folded, 
Bottom-Board, Camp-stools, Gim- 
wale, Stretcher, and Packing- 
< 'hest. All but Oars and Paddle 
i.;i> in Chest. 

SIZE OF CHESTS. 

For 15-foot Boat, 40 inches long, 
•20 inches wide, 20 inches deep. 

For 12-foot Boat, .38 inches long, 
17 inches wide, 17 inches deep. 




FIVE SIZES ARE MANUFACTURED. 

No. 1, 15 feet long, 36 inches wide, weight, 75 lbs. Price, $50. 
u 2, 12 " " 33 <' " " 50 " " 40. 



3, 12 

4, 91 
6, 8" 



33 



40 
30 
30 



40. 
35. 
35. 



Each size makes up foui- different weights or style.s. You ha\e the same as four boats com- 
bined IN ONE. 

Boat is put in sack made of ducking, only little larger than ordinar,v grain bag', and then al 
packed in chest for shipping. The sack is a sufficient protection to the boat in carrjing it in wagon 
or carriage. The chest is used only for transporting it on cars, or on a load of camping goods. 

Boats shipped C. O. D. on receipt of $10, subject to examination before paying the balance to 
the express agent. If not satisfactory, tlie boat can be returned by freight, and we will return 
balance of money, after paying freight charges both wajs. 

Parties ordering, that know the boat, may send draft for ftdl amount, and we will ship by 
freight or express ; or send good reference and we will forward at once, it-j?' If jou want a Port- 
:il>lt' Boat, we can please you. Send for Illustrated Tt'stiiiioiiial Circular. 

Manufactured by N. A. OSGOOD, Battle Creek, Mich. 



jJ 



|FR0f M8T. LUiENCnO T||Ei| 

I (Og'denstm.rg to I»ortlaii<l) | 

- ■VIA. - 

Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain, 

St. Johnsbury & Lake Champlain, 
i Portland & Ogdensburg R. R's, 



— REACHING THE — 



'^- ADIRONDACK WILDERNESS, -^14 



Chateaucay Chasm, 

white mountains, portland, old orchard, 

mount desert, and all sea-side 

resorts of the east. 



All Trains Ftiruishecl iclth the Latest Improve - 

ments for the Safety and Comfort of PasseiKjers. 

Special Attention given to Tourist Travel. 



Tickets oil Sale at all Principal Ticlet Offices tliroiiElioiit the Country. 



^g- Be sure your tickets read via this POPULAR and OLD ESTABLISHED 
ROUTE. For further information apply to 

F. L. POMEROY, C. H. STEVENS, €. H. FOYE, 

Gen. Pas. Ast. 0.& L.C.R.K., Gen. Pas. Agt. 9t.J.& L.C.E.R., Gen. Pas. Agt.P.& O.li.K., 

Ogdeiisburff. X. Y. St. Johiisbury, Vt. Portland. Me. 












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ITS LINES EX;TETifI>i 




Chicago to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, via Detroit, 
Mackinaw City to Toledo, via Detroit, 
Bay City and Saginaw to Jackson, 
Grand Rapids to Detroit, via Jackson, 
Jackson to Niles, Airune. 




1 IVj ICHIGAN 




AND OTHER SMALLER LINES. 



CO;. 

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AA^AA^>^ 



ro >1/V^ F/?0/>f MICHIGAN AND -e^- 

]N"e^vv^ Y^ork, Boston, BiO-fFalo, 
Chicago, Detroit, and Toledo. 

NEWlmmiNG CARS 

Between Chicago, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls, on Principal Trains. 

EXCURSION TICKETS DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS 

Via Niagara Falls, St. Lawrence Eiver, Thousand Islands, &c.. 
To all thie X»IjEA.STJPtE RESORT'S of tlxe E^VST". 






H. B. LEDYARD, 

General Maiia, 



P. I. WHITNEY, 

Aast Gen I Pas. S Tick. 



0. W. RUGGLES, 

Gen I Pas. <4 Tick. Agl 



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